Christmas Eve dawns in Paris, another fine sunny day, although we don't think it got much above 5 degrees today. There was quite a thick frost on the northern banks of the Seine, which stayed all day. Most shops are open, and going strong, people are still carrying Christmas trees home, and there are still a lot for sale in the streets.
We discovered an interesting little cafe, just over the river from our apartment and out of the way of the crowds, but when we went in at 4.30pm (late lunch!), the proprietor told us she was closing early today. Clare thinks she is going home to cook for her family! We will try it again when things return to normal. We managed to get a glass of hot mulled wine, "vin chaud", which is delicious and just what you need after a cold day in the streets, and a snack ("potage de poisson") in another tiny cafe, shortly after.
On our walks this week we have been interested in the tiny shops which stock just one thing, but a lot of it. For instance the accordian repair shop, see the pic, which was next to the accordian shop, which was next to the accordian sheet music shop, in Rue Daguerre. Another street was full of little shops selling, watches, and watch bands. If you know where to go, you would have an enormous choice of the item you were looking for. Tiny shops just selling cheese, or meat or pastries, or tiny delicacies, dot the streets.
Notre Dame was not too busy today, we popped in as the sunlight was coming in through the rose window, and saw that they are getting ready for services tonight, with extra chairs.
In one very popular and smoke filled bar in le Marais, the Pick Clops, we were told that smoking in cafes is going to be banned from New Years Day, 2008. We cannot imagine how that will work, as everywhere is full of patrons puffing away. We can just about last the distance of a drink or a meal before bursting out into the cold fresh air, and gasping it in lungfulls. It will be very interesting, as this no smoking rule will completely change the cafe culture of Parisians. If, like in Australia, they stand on the footpath outside, then it will be very crowded passing by on the narrow foothpaths. Of course in the summer, they can sit outside, but the last couple of weeks have been way too cold to do that, and you see very few people sitting in those famed outdoor seats. We did manage coffee today at a brazier heated outdoor seat, in the sun, on the Ile de la Cite today.
We haven't been eating at the Ritz or at other fine dining establishments, rather we call into whatever cafe we find attractive wherever we are when we get hungry. (It's pointless looking for smoke-free cafes, although there are a few.) All the cafes we've called into are very compact and crowded: it's rare to find one where you have room to take off your coat and sit comfortably. They always feel cramped, but people are universally very polite when they are forced to get past you to get in or out. There is much saying of "pardonne" and "excusez-moi". One place we had a kir in the other day near Montparnasse was quieter, being very much out of the way of tourists. The customers calling in there were almost all regulars, who didn't have to place their order, it was just put on the bar for them as soon as they walked in. They all had a double take at us, being strangers. Mostly, they finished their drink, just one, and left quickly.
There is little difference between bars and restaurants - the former focus on alcohol but serve meals, the latter focus on meals but seem happy to serve coffee or a drink, especially outside of meal times.
Merry Christmas to all!!!!
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