Casino in the Bad River Indian Reservation.From Minocqua WI we coerced our Garmin navigator to take us the scenic route to Duluth MN. This road traversed several Indian Reservations and thus we were reminded that American Indians gain revenge on white-men who decimated them by being allowed to run casinos! The road for the entire 264km was snow covered, with just two wheel tracks in each direction, and lots of wind flurries to disguise the track and make us nervous. About halfway, we called into Ironwood MI, but the weather here was so bleak, and the snow-cover so heavy, that we decided to push on without actually stopping. Our first sight of Lake Superior was at Ashland WI, and we followed the lake through Superior to its twin town, Duluth.
Lighthouse in frozen Chequamegon Bay, Ashland WI.Duluth (named after a French fur trapper who caused havoc amongst the Indian population) has been on Clare's bucket list for some time, together with a stay at Fitger's Inn on the waterfront. Neither let us down! Duluth is a beautiful city to visit, and Fitger's is a great hotel, well worth the splurge to stay here.
Hillside houses behind Duluth CBD.But first, Minnesota generally, and Duluth in particular, must be the coldest place in the world. Just to be outside takes your breath away. For example, on New Year's Eve, we were walking the streets at -23C! And that's before any wind chill factor is included. You can only stand this for so long, and then you have to retreat into a shop somewhere to warm up. Hands and fingers suffer the worst, and the conditions are a gross assault on the skin on your face.
Duluth Aerial Lift Bridge at night.Duluth is identified by and famous for its opening bridge. This glorious steel structure elevates the road level horizontally upwards (like a lift) to allow giant iron-ore carriers to enter the harbour and load pellets. The canal in is defined by two very attractive navigational lighthouses, and at this time of the year, everything (including the water) is covered in ice and snow, creating a bizarre alien landscape.
Two navigation beacons guard the Duluth entrance to Superior Bay. The water is warmer than the air causing steam to rise.The local newspaper contains shipping news and we were lucky enough to see one huge carrier enter the narrow canal at some speed and pass under the bridge to the bulk terminals. This is an awesome sight, with the hull so close you can almost touch it. Crowds line the waterway to watch each ship. We had to put the car heater on full bore in the car park to thaw out after this exercise.
Iron ore carrier steaming through the canal and under the elevated bridge.
Two frozen tourists at the Duluth Bridge canal.Our hotel is an old brewery, run by a company first established by German August Fitger in the 19th Century. The hotel still has a microbrewery in its bar - we sampled the ale there, but they only serve "beer, wine and whiskey", so Clare was disappointed. Every other aspect of the hotel is positive. The staff are friendly and helpful, and, amazingly for an American establishment, they eschew tipping! Valet parking, breakfast and high speed internet are all complimentary, making the high cost of staying here seem much better value.
James Povich painting showing tourist train and Fitger's Inn in summer.On New Year's Eve, we enjoyed a special dinner at the hotel's fine dining restaurant, Midi. Again, no complaints! Our meal was possibly the best we have enjoyed in the US so far, and we have eaten well everywhere we have been so far.
The entrance to Duluth Harbour and Superior Bay as seen from Fitger's Inn.We have a lakeside room at the hotel, and in the 3 days were stayed here, we have seen Lake Superior go from no ice, to what appears to be fully frozen. Certainly the ships entering the harbour are ploughing through ice, although we have been told that the lake has only ever fully frozen over twice in living memory. The harbour is about to close for the season. We were amused to see, at a "beach" on the lake, a sign warning swimmers what to do if they are caught in a rip.
Ice crystals in the wild grass at the beach off Minnesota Ave on the long spit.
Evil-looking ice scapes on the beach of Lake Superior.
Many bridges cross Superior Street in the Duluth Skywalk network.When we first arrived here, Naomi, at the hotel desk, told us how to walk (about 1km) to a nearby Asian restaurant along the lakeside path. What she forgot to tell us was how bitterly cold it would be, and how treacherously slippery the going would be! In fact, all the side-walks in Duluth are treacherous, except where the adjacent business takes personal responsibility for keeping it clear and safe. But Duluth is well prepared for its bad weather, by having a complex network of covered overhead paths and bridges (the Duluth Skywalk, most of which pass through private buildings, enabled much of the CBD to be traversed without venturing outside.
The Duluth Curling Club, as seen from the Skywalk.
Some of the several bridges which cross Superior Bay and St. Louis Bay between Duluth and Superior.We did a scenic drive on the North Shore of Lake Superior passing many fine homes and old mansions. We drove across the opening bridge to a long skinny spit which protects the harbour. Real estate in both these areas must be the most expensive in the city. Immediately behind the CBD is a steep hill also crowded with housing. Duluth is indeed a unique city with many surprising geographic features, making it most interesting to visit and explore. We are pleased to have visited here, despite the incredible cold.
Coastline of Lake Superior as seen from Duluth North Shore.
Ice fisherman out in the middle of Superior Bay.
One very dirty rental car on the way to the Duluth opening bridge.
Quite solid ice as far as the eye can see from our room window at Fitger's Inn. No steam rises when the surface is frozen.
