Española and the Nazca Boobies...

After sailing from San Christobal, we visited Isla Española. This, the southernmost and driest Galapagos island, used to be called Hood Island, but we are now realising that the anglo-names of many locations, presumably endowed by early English visitors, such as Charles Darwin, have been replaced by Spanish names, posession being nine tenths of the law.

Sea lions seem particularly comfortable on this Espanola beach.

Our day on this island set the tone for the entire Galapagos expedition. Lindblad like to get you up early (5:30am) and fill the day with photographic, educational and recreational activities, all blended into a busy but fun program. On this one day, we could swim, snorkel, kayak and hike, and it was our first real exposure to the unique Galapagos' wildlife that makes it so famous.

Marine iguana enjoying the view of the tourists.

It's hot in this place (no surprises, on the equator), and the hiking is arduous. We start to see some of Lindblad's method. They schedule hot hikes for early and late in the day, and we engage in water activities in the heat of the day.

Lava lizard surveying all around him from one of the trail markers.

Characteristic green and red coloration of Espanola marine iguanas.

Today, after a dry landing, the walking track at Punta Suárez was quite treacherous, a real "boulder hopper", as guides led us on approved trails through a coastal wilderness where we saw close up dozens if not hundreds of colourful marine iguanas, and families of Nazca Boobies (eastern Pacific, not endemic, hanging around in great accumulations of stomach-turningly smelly guano), not to mention the extremely brightly colored sally-lightfoot crabs. All of these guys seem quite oblivious to our presence. We are warned not approach within 2 metres, but any of these locals are wont to coming a lot closer of their own accord.

Nazca Booby guarding her egg.

Laying down the law from his guano covered rock.

Chick seeking attention of his Nazca Booby parent.

Baby booby training by playing with a dead bird.

Endemic Galapagos dove scurries around the undergrowth with his startling blue eyes.

Wave splashed rocks are a favourite haunt for these sally-lightfoot crabs.

Sally Lightfoot Crabs provide specatcular colour!

True to Darwin's findings, Española has some of its own species distinct to related versions found on other Galapagos islands, such as the Española mockingbird and the Española lava lizard. Wandering around, we come across the tiny lava lizards, we found that the mocking-birds are quite curious and try to get under your feet, and occasionally spy Darwin's Finches and other small fellows. Gulls and frigate birds soar overhead. This particular walk featured a very pretty blowhole which spumed frequently.

After a clash in priorities became evident, Lindblad started to divide hikes into "photographers" and "natural historians".

The reds of some marine iguanas are quite vivid.

Cute little pup tucked up awaiting mum's return from the sea.

Impressive blowhole, looks to be more frequent and reliable than the one in Kiama.

Water sports on Española supplied relief from the heat. Today, at Gardner Bay, on the white sandy beach, we saw many sea lions, and they swim past us speedily. The snorkelling was pleasant, the water being quite balmy and clear, but there is little to no coral. The fish are interesting though, but they don't pose for photographs.

Galapagan local guide Socrates leading us in the dive.

Not much coral, but the water is clear and the fish are colorful.

Gateway to the Galapagos...

We flew Copa from San Jose, Costa Rica to Guayaquil, Ecuador to meet up with our Galapagos expedition in a few days time. Guayaquil is a big metropolitan city (pop 5M), the biggest in the country (16M) but not the capital (which is Quito). This is a hot steamy place, it's just 2deg south of the equator and at sea level. The population is 72% Mestizo (combined Amerindian and European) - little racial purity anymore. We speak Spanish here and use the US Dollar, and, we've noticed, no-one expects a tip!

The hotel we had originally booked was damaged in the April 2016 earthquake and closed for repairs, so they rebooked us into the nearby Hotel Palace, a faded star but perfectly OK, right downtown. We got a big comfortable room.

Our Hotel Palace at the intersection of Calles Chile and Luque..

For every new town, on this trip, we had pre-booked a local guide for a private tour, and Guayaquil was no exception. Our man was Fernando, and he arrived early in a VW mini-bus and driver, Miguel. We spent the entire day with Fernando and Miguel.

Fernando introduced us to Guayaquil to highlight how hard the city has been working to throw off its image as a crime-ridden zone populated by thieves, muggers and murderer preying on residents and visitors. There are still dangerous swathes of the city, but by our observation, the city is doing a good job without sterilising its character.

The first big surprise on this tour was a bit out of town, the Parque Histórico. This 8ha self-admitted "theme park" was developed by the Central Bank of Ecuador in 1997 on the banks of the hugely wide Guayas River (the city is 60km up the river from the Gulf of Guayaquil). Half of the park is devoted to a wildlife exhibit where endemic and native species are kept in conditions supposedly resembling what they experience in the wild. As with all zoos, this involves terrible compromise, and we didn't know what to expect, but our whole experience was very favourable.

Spectacular bromeliad flower at the Historical Park.

Unique parrot.

Bright yellow mangrove flower.

Chestnut macaw.

Female scarlet macaw.

Extra tall Ecuadorian mangroves.

We trooped along a walkway elevated over a tidal mangrove zone. Birds were free, although they had their wings clipped. Other creatures were mostly loosely confined in large enclosures skillfully designed for visitors to observe them uninvasively. This proved to be a nice modern zoo, with quality being more important than quantity, and it must be a great resource for visitors and residents of Guayaquil and Ecuador alike. We're sure, of course, that the inmates would rather be in the wild!

Cocoa beans.

when opened!

Also in the Historical Park, we saw old (relocated and restored) colonial mansions, city and country versions, belonging to chocolate plantation barons, the Lavender Family, and recreations of stilted houses used by landholders in the flat and wet rice paddies which still surround Guayaquil and occupy more than half the country. And we saw the Oro y Verde Hotel, a luxury boutique hotel in the grounds of the Historical Park. A compliant manager showed us round - the rooms look very luxurious!

Colonial era buildings relocated to the Historical Park.

At the front door to the Lavender family's mansion.

Unique shutter configuration, designed for strong winds.

Rural farmer residence, as seen at the Historical Park.

House in the country.

Driving around on this tour, we saw that Guayaquil is blessed with great street art, large, evocative, often colorful, always eye-catching, some old some new. The one we liked best, but couldn't get a good pic of nor find one on the internet, was near the airport - a very new and gigantic sculpture of a native warrior, his woman, and a jaguar. But see our pics for some of the others.

Monkey statue by Juan Sanchez at the entrance to a road tunnel. Over 100,000 ceramic pieces comprise.

Large statue of Jesus Christ atop a 140 step pilgrim's climb and 12 stations of the cross.

Back in town, we spent a hour or two probing around Guayaquil's two iconic hills, Cerro Del Carmen and Cerro Santa Anna, close together but decidedly separate, both crowded with simple houses of colourful masonry, barely kept apart by narrow roads and even narrower and very steep pedestrian stairways. The top of the former is a forest of telecommunication towers (plus studios), and the other has a blue and white striped lighthouse or faro. Miguel had to work hard to manoeuvre his VW around this neighbourhood.

Terrifying array of broadcast towers on Cerro Del Carmen.

Guayaquil's iconic view. El Faro atop Santa Ana Hill as seen from Cerro Del Carmen.

To finish a long day, Fernando took us to the Parke Seminario, opposite which is the Catedral Metropolitana. The park yielded something we did not expect - literally hundreds of iguanas! All quite tame and prepared to climb your leg (best to have thick trousers on) if you proffer a banana. Unfortunately, there were also many more pigeons than iguanas, encouraged by people selling pigeon food. We resisted showing any iguanas with pigeons standing on them.

Small iguana seen in the Parque Seminario.

And a larger model.

Being petted by Fernando.

Close up!

Leadlight in the Metropolitan Cathedral.

The iguana in Seminary Park are "native" there. As surrounding development progressed but the park remained, its iguana population concentrated. By now, the iguana are absurdbly acclimatised to the presence of humans, not to mention the pigeons, and they tolerate all manner of abuse and food from adults and children. At night, the iguana sleep in the trees, grateful for the break, we reckon.

Fernando thinks the McDonalds on the Malecon has the best view in the world. He could be right!

Throughout our stay, the weather in Guayaquil was "opressive equatorial", very hot, 100% humidity with constantly threatening skies, which dulled the photographs but didn't yield much rain. These conditions pose difficulty for both ourselves and our cameras - the latter fog up as soon as they are removed from air conditioned hotel rooms.

Gardens of the Malecon.

View of Cerro Del Carmen, plus a celebration of Guayaqui's 200 years of freedom.

Without Fernando to mind us, on other days, we had to get around the city unchaperoned. Our advice was to stick to the streets around 9 de Octobre and Malecon Simon Bolivar, so we basically did! Walking around these areas, we certainly felt quite safe. We saw few visitors, and those that we did were Spanish speaking. This town does not appeal to tourists. All the "big" hotels are near the airport, not downtown where we stayed, so Guayaquil is basically seen as a gateway to the Galapagos, not a destination in itself. A pity, we had a pleasant time here, and the town has a lot more to offer than, say, San Jose.

Spectacular iguana in the Malecon's gardens.

Particularly beautiful bromeliad flower.

Malecon tree.

Inner city streets are clogged with cars, mostly (unmetered) taxis which find it necessary to give a brief toot as they approach any intersection. This racket, added to by loud continual spruiking from pedestrian sellers of "agua" and lotto tickets, makes for a very noisy urban environment. Security guards are everywhere. We felt safe enough in this approved neighbourhood, but followed advice to put our camera away, not wear valuables or carry much money.

Four trucks being barged up the Rio Guayas. In the background, the pedestrian bridge to Isla Santay, a large and pristine wilderness in the river.

An alert heron on the lookout in the Rio Guayas mudflats.

We walked the Malecon Simon Bolivar. Fernando had told us that this was the best Malecon around, and we now believe him. It is a really highly developed pedestrian precinct replete with fabulous tropical gardens, numerous children's playgrounds and attractions, many restaurants, cafes and bars. And of course, great views of the Rio Guayas alongside. A great credit to the city leaders behind it.

The go-to spot on the Malecon for tourist selfies.

Behind which is the memorial to South America's two liberators Simon Bolivar and Jose de San Martin.