Athens - Morning Laps of the Acropolis and Agora...

Early morning filming of a travel guide for the Acropolis from Aeropagus Hill. [1169]

In Athens, Mike's morning walks became almost always variations on a lap of the Acropolis and Ancient Agora (about 2.5km), with varying detours (extending the walk up to 5km). His favourite was hiking the narrow alleys and steep steps of Anafiotika, an old and photogenic district uphill from Plaka in the immediate foothills of the Acropolis. That early, the shops in the touristy strips of Adrianou, Sellei and Vyronos streets are 90% closed (only a few cafes open) and the only pedestrians are striding out to one of the two Acropolis entries. Side trips on the laps on different days were to Hadrian's Arch, the National Garden, or Areopagus Hill. For parkland, the hill at Filopappou with the Prison of Socrates was a pleasant change, populated only by joggers. And of course, the other historical sites of Hadrian's Library and the Ancient Agora. Most of these locations justified return trips later in the day for more relaxed viewing, but the photos in this post reflect the relative quiet (but still warm) streets of Athens befor 08:00am.

Plaka, the "Neighbourhood of the Gods" is the 'old town' of Athens, where the north and eastern foothills of the Acropolis become flatter. It consists of "labyrinthine streets and neoclassical architecture" and is built "on top of residential area of ancient Athens" Wikipedia. Plaka has enjoyed human habitation since neotlithic times (except, for example, when it was evacuated in 1826 to escape pitched battles of the Greek War of Independence). During the day, Plaka is replete with visitors, but early in the morning it is all but deserted except for delivery vans.

At 7am, Anathistika cafe in Lisiou is not yet ready for visitors. [6755]

At 7am, this pretty cafe awaits its first customer. [6756]

Anafiotika must be Athens' most enchanted neighbourhood. It's the upper part of the historical Plaka on the northeast slope of the Acropolis and is directly between The Dolli and the Acropolis. This neighbourhood (which has signs posted begging for quite enjoyment and respect from visitors) was first developed in the 1840's (we read that in Wikipedia which implies, rightly or wrongly, that the ancients didn't build here) by migrant workers who hoped to find work on archaeological sites. It is a community of close-packed tiny houses connected by narrow paths and steep steps. There are occasional spots where visitors can see the city. Abandoned buildings are dilapidated and covered in graffiti, but most are well kept, freshly painted and bougainvillea proliferate.

View from the narrow alleys of Anafiotika, across the roof of Ieros Naos Agiou Symeon Anaphaion. [6761]

Not too glamorous, but very quaint, some of the pedestrian trails in Anafiotika. [6765]

Houses wrap themselves around rocky outcrops in the hills of Anafiotika. [6768]

More pedestrian steps in Anafiotika. [6772]

Shutters on a pretty Anafiotika house. [6775]

Abandoned dwelling on the slopes of Anafiotika. [6778]

Pretty and rustic, a house in the hilly Anafiotika district under the Acropolis. [6793]

Graffiti takes over when buildings are abandoned, in Anafiotika. [6781]

This may be the sacred cave containing ruins of the Temple of Asclepius and a holy water spring (500BC onwards), but it is now fenced off and not signposted. [6794]

The Monument of Lysicrates was erected by a wealthy patron of musical performances in the Theater of Dionysus. He celebrated a choral concert prize won in 335 BC, in which he was liturgist. The monument is known as the first use of the Corinthian order on the exterior of a building. It has been reproduced widely in modern monuments and building elements. The shady cafe, right, was one we patronised on a hot day.[6846]

Going clockwise around the Acropolis, there is a detour to the marble Gate of Hadrian on the edge of Plaka which spanned an ancient road running from Athens and the Acropolis to the east. The gate, or arch, was to honour the Roman emperor Hadrian who must have been respected by the Athenians. Inscriptions are interpreted to say that "this is Athens, once the city of Theseus; this is the city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus" Wikipedia which sounds like Hadrian was re-founding in Rome's name the much more ancient Greek city. As usual, there is doubt about much of this history.

Morning traffic in Leof. Vasilisis Amalias wraps around Hadrian's Gate, built to honour the Roman emperor around 130AD. [6852]

A wide pedestrian boulevard called Dionysiou Areopagitou tracked around the south side of the Acropolis going past a Metro station and the new Acropolis Museum and some fine Hellenic style buildings and mansions. This must be a wealthy part of town. It also passed the entry to the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a Roman theatre built in 160AD with a capacity of 5,000 patrons. The theatre featured a timber roof, but was destroyed in 267AD by Germanic Heruli. After restoration in the 1950's (but roofless), it is now used for major events such as the annual Athens Festival. Performers at the Odeum have included Maria Callas, Frank Sinatra, Luciano Pavarotti, Sting and more.

We concluded that 8:00am was the best time to queue at the Acropolis, despite advice to 'arrive early'. [8132]

One wonders what this modern house, directly facing the Acropolis, replaced? [1159]

A Roman cistern near the entrance to the Odeum of Herodes Atticus. [1160]

Marble steps lead up to the Odeum of Herodes Atticus. [1161]

Water fountain near the Odeum of Herodes Atticus. [6691]

A detour off that path leads up marble steps to the northern Acropolis entrance, quite a sight at 08:00am. This way leads to a shortcut back to Plaka. Here is Areopagus Hill (115m high) which seems to be a bare rocky outcrop but its mythical relationship to the Eumenides, goddesses of revenge and punishment, had it hosting courts hearing cases of murder, sacriledge and arson. It was a cemetery in ancient times. In 51AD, Christianity was preached here by the Apostle Paul, and by 400AD, in the Late Roman period, luxury homes were built on the hill. Not much of that is obvious now, but it's a great (free) place to view the sunset.

Long queues form at the north-west Acropolis gate at about 08:00 every morning. [1166]

The Church of Metamorphosis Sotiros almost at the base of the Acropolis cliff dates back to 11thC AD. [1605]

Early morning view of the Odeum of Herodes Atticus and the Parthenon. [8134]

Near here on the walking lap, south-west of the Acropolis is where buses and taxis let visitors off who didn't want to walk up the hill from the city. A detour from here takes you to a large hilly forested parkland, Filopappou Hill, which includes the Prison of Socrates, the city's old Observatory, the Hill of the Pnyx, and the Hill of the Nymphs. It's nice walking in here, very few people, but sometimes quite rough underfoot (watch for twisted ankles!), and easy to get slightly lost. We could not tell one hill from another, they blurred into each other. The early morning sun was a useful landmark for it pointed back to the Acropolis.

Cut into bedrock on Filopappu Hill is the Prison of Socrates. It's said he was held here in 400BC before his trial for disloyalty to established gods. Others say it was just a bathhouse. In WW2, treasures were hidden here to avoid Nazi looting. [8138]

Walking paths on Filopappou Hill required care. [8139]

This section of path on Filopappou Hill featured pretty mosaic motifs. We think these paths were the work of landscape designer Dimitris Pikionis (~1955). [8145]

In sight of the Acropolis' front steps, the Hill of the Pnyx, quite bare now, but in 500C this is where democracy was born. Great orators Aristides, Demosthenes, Pericles and Themistocles addressed crowds here. [8159]

The now abandoned 1842 Athens Observatory on the Hill of the Nymphs. [8162]

Then, the broad marble-paved walking path, now called Apostolou Paviou, passes downhill round the western side of the Acropolis and Areopagus Hill, where a pretty 1931 Church of Agia Marina Thission stands to the left, with lots open air cafes here, but all are quiet in the morning. To the right is the Ancient Agora, but there's no entry here.

The Church of Agia Marina, a four-sided basilica, was built in 1927 in Byzantine style. The building encompasses an 11th Century temple built into the rockface. [6705]

Finally, on this loop, we pass souvenir sellers setting up camp, and wind up back in the city following Adrianou street to the north of the Agora. The narrow street, barely one lane wide, is bordered with cafes and choked with early morning delivery vans. On the right is the Metro Line 3. Adrianou and the railway divide the Ancient Agora. An entrance to the Agora is here, as are the current excavations underway. Walk past Monastiraki metro station and up Mitroploeos street back to The Dolli!

Dawn lights up the foothills of Areopagus Hill. [6697]

Athens Metro train passes a reconstructed Stoa in the Ancient Agora. [6723]

Second-hand bookshop near Thissio metro station, opening for the day. [9121]

Greek souvenir shop open early in Apollonos street. [6608]

Before the crowds arrive. 8am in a shopping mall in Monastiraki. [6877]

Modern buildings in front of the Acropolis as seen from Monastiraki Square. [6726]

The entrance to Monastiraki metro station. [9351]

The photos in this post represent almost a dozen early morning walking 'laps' outside the Acropolis and Agora area. The Photo Map below shows where they all were taken.

Athens - Hot and Bustling Metropolis...

At the Monument to the Unknown Soldier at Syntagma. [6584]

Humans first appeared in the Attica region of the Grecian peninsula about 12 thousand years ago (Why so late? It makes them Johnny-come-latelies compared to the Australian first nations people.) As a city, Athens is one of the world's oldest, with its recorded history starting in about 1400BC. Greek mythology has it that the city was named after Athena, an ancient goddess of wisdom, but scholars think it was really the other way round. Athens as a city-state (not Greece) is thought of as the cradle of Western civilization and the birthplace of democracy [ Wikipedia ], but its worth adding that the privileges of democracy in those days was wholly reserved for male citizens. Women, children and slaves were excluded, but free men were not only entitled to participate, but required to - shades of the Australian system of compulsory voting!

The Acropolis at night, with the Parthenon at left, and Erechtheum at right. [6663]

Greece's parliament building as viewed from the Acropolis hill. [9210]

Greece's official name is Hellenic Republic and it is a relatively small country by European standards, with a population of 10-11M. Athens metro area itself has 3.6M, (and everyone we talked to claimed relatives in Australia and reminded us that Melbourne is the world's third largest Greek city after Athens and Thessaloniki). The sense of the past is unavoidable in Athens, with human habitation from about 7-11,000BC and a recorded history dating back 3,400 years. There are ruins aplenty, especially from the Classical period, 5th and 4th centuries BC up to the death of Alexander the Great. We were fascinated to witness archeological digs in action in the northwestern corner of the Ancient Agora.

Painting, in the NJV Plaza Hotel, showing the goddess Athena. [0125]

Looking for a cool place for a light meal? [6620]

Areopagus Hill, a large bare rock, once served as the high court of appear in ancient Greece, is now a great place to catch the sunset.[6647]

On this trip to Greece, we spent a total of 14 nights over four stays in the capital city Athens. For each stay, our small (maybe 30 rooms?) boutique hotel was The Dolli, a brilliant restoration of a 4 storey mansion, a recommendation of the Greece-Mediteranean Travel in Sydney. The hotel was fantastically located away from the traffic in the Monastiraki district of Athens, in Mitropoleos street, really close to the Acropolis, and, we think, in a much better spot than the "flasher" hotels mostly near Syntagma. The staff here were nothing less than superb - that includes the front desk, the restaurant, housekeeping and management (Mary and Evriante). There were always two or more bellmen on duty, neatly uniform in grey slacks and t-shirts, and they could not be more helpful. One of them, George, with a wonderful moustache, helped us with our bags, a walk of 700m to meet up with the Sea Cloud crew, too short for any taxi to be interested.

The Dolli Hotel, with two of its exceptionally friendly staff. [6640]

The Hotel Dolli from the Acropolis, our room directly under the right hand umbrella in the restaurant. [9205]

This is how we knew we were on the 4th floor of the Hotel Dolli. [6728]

Our top floor room faced directly south to the famed Acropolis. It was simply wonderful to lie in bed and be able to gaze at this majestic monument from dawn to dusk, and through the night as the entire hill is beautifully illuminated. Our view was enhanced by a small balcony. The bathroom was superb with an electronic bidet and one of the best showers imaginable - hot, high pressure with four nozzles. Unlike on the islands, you can safely drink the tapwater in Athens, but the hotel still supplied us with as much bottled water as you want. Every evening we would return to the room to find some sort of treat had been left for us.

Martinis at 7:45pm at The Dolli. [6646]

Pigeon spied from our balcony at The Dolli. [6556]

Lycabettus Hill, at 277m, the real highest point in Athens, here seen from a rooftop bar in Plaka. [4455]

Directly above our room was the rooftop restaurant. There are many great rooftop views in the world's cities, and The Dolli surely has one of the best there is. An infinity pool next to the restaurant faces the Acropolis, and we cooled off in it every day. The smallish deck area beside the pool had inadequate shade, so we didn't hang around up there, but other hotel guests loved the hot sun and exposed themselves to it fulsomely. Thanks to Greek-Med Travel for arranging the Dolli and getting us such a brilliant room for each of our stays. The room was exquisite, but it had no work-desk, so the duty-manager happily found a suitable table for our computer and charging stations. That table was in place for each of our follow-up stays. Nothing was too much trouble at The Dolli.

Breakfast at The Dolli. [0617]

Every night we could lie in that bed and admire the glory of the Parthenon on the Acropolis. [6552]

The most glorious sight from The Dolli Hotel. What a location, with the area of Anafiotika at the base of the cliff. [6553]

The Byzantine era Church of Panagia Kapnikarea is one of the oldest in Athens, thought to date to 1050AD, built in the bustling Ermou Street atop an ancient temple dedicated to Athena or Demeter, depending on who you believe. [6566]

Inside the Church of Panagia Kapnikarea between Syntagma and Monastiraki. [6614]

A bonus find only about 100m from The Dolli. [0724]

Dawn's early light shines bright on the Church of Agia Marina, and behind it the National Observatory. [6558]

Some buildings in downtown Athens are awaiting renovation. [6599]

Is Summer in Athens always this crowded? Well probably, maybe worse right now as tourists stay away from the upcoming Olympic Games in France. Or maybe they are on their way to Paris? Whatever, we have been staggered by the crowds in the touristy areas of Plaka and Monastiraki. The narrow streets are crowded with taxis and motorbikes. Narrow or missing footpaths mean that pedestrians share the roadway with these vehicles, but everyone seems to get out of everyone else's way. Many streets are all but pedestrian malls with slippery marble underfoot. Vans delivering goods and produce clutter these ways early in the morning. Despite the people, it is a delight to wander the streets, lanes and alleys of Monastiraki and Plaka, andv there are never-ending photo opportunities.

Ermou, a pedestrian mall dedicated to shopping. [6635]

The pedestrian shopping mall of Adrianou. [6847]

We found this bakery, Attika, to make delicious baguettes and we often bought a take-away lunch here. [6571]

Fans spray open-air cafes with a water mist to keep the patrons cool. [2740]

No trouble getting good coffee in Athens. We tried the 'Greek Coffee' too, which tasted like a strong Americano. [5054]

Rustic bordering on dilapidated, in Apollonos street. [6734]

The Syntagma area is a short walk up Mitropoleos from The Dolli, and is rightfully regarded as the centre of the city. The famed Monument to the Unknown Soldier is there, in front of the imposing Greek parliament building. Around Syntagma Square are grand hotels like the NJV Plaza and the Grande Bretagne. There is also the Public department store, a fine underground Metro station, and an entrance to the National Garden.

The entrance vestibule at Syntagma metro station was a cut above any of the others we saw. [5819]

Crowds watching the guards at the Monument to the Unknown Soldier before the Greek parliament. [0316]

Changing of the guard at the Monument to the Unknown Soldier. [6594]

Guards at the Monument to the Unknown Soldier, having been relieved, march away. [0510]

Palm trees in the National Garden. [6741]

'Little Fisherman' removes hook from a catch, statue and turtle pond in Zappeion. [6746]

Weather statistics show that Athens gets rain one or two days a month in Summer. From what we have seen, the city looks like it never rains. It is hot, dry and dusty (and we were there before the August 2024 bushfires). The temperature falls to 28C at night, and seems to be 30-35C throughout daylight hours. Afternoons are stupifyingly hot, the crowds at the Acropolis dissipate, and people gravitate to the myriads of cafes for cooling beverages, preferring the shade of mostly mulberry trees, or dark shady lanes. The sun is well to the south in this season, so it is easy to find welcome shady places.

Busking band making beautiful noise in Ermou street, Athens. [8267]

Perfect sized vehicle for parking and navigating the streets of Plaka. [5930]