After leaving Rausu we drove a "scenic route" to Yoroushi with many stops on the way. One of the highlights was a diversion to Kaiyodai Observatory near Nakashibetsu, a very impressive structure high on a hill complete with rooftop ampitheatre for guided stargazing, in summer we think. For our visit, the cafe here was firmly closed.
We approach Kaiodai Observatory.
Stellar observation theatre with Mt. Unabetsu directly to the north.
Icy hill track to the observatory made safe with our Sapporo-bought non-slip grips.
Then, in Akan National Park, we stopped to peer down into the volcanic crater that holds Lake Mashu. The crater walls are 200m high, the lake large and very blue, partially frozen at its shadier end. Measurements of clarity reveal that Lake Mashu is maybe the clearest in the world. Other measurements rate the volcano as "potentially active", but all was quiet for our visit. Lake Mashu is a newcomer in geologic terms, under 32,000 years old. Eruptions occurred 7,000 years ago, and 2,000 years ago. The Ainu people knew the potential here and called Mashu the "Lake of the Devil".
Panorama of Lake Mashu's stunning caldera.
Sika deer safe inside Lake Masha's huge crater.
On the shores of nearby Lake Kussharo we visited Sunayu where we where entertained by the antics of Whooper Swans on the verge of being fed by a business owner no doubt hoping to attract paying customers. More interestingly, we discovered that the 56km circumference Lake Kussharo is also a volcanic caldera which, prior to some eruption, was much larger and included what is now Lake Masha. We saw more swans further around the lake's edge at what seems to be called a "Wild Onsen", where there is a public onsen right on the beach, with an absurd little fence to segregate the sexes. Public nudity here would be rather discouraged by the swarms of photographers lurking in the onsen steam, hoping for great shots of the swans. It's possible to create your own private onsen here - just digging in the sand produces hot water. We imagine the swans are attracted by the warm water.
The Whooper Swans have their eyes on the man with the bucket.
Feeding time at Sunayu.
Another handful of swan food.
Swan photographers in wait by the "Wild Onsen".
You can imagine how the Lake Kussharo crater once encompassed Lake Machu, in this GPS map.
If we had any doubts about how the earth works beneath the surface, having been in the caldera of a "potentially active" volcano, and seen hot water and steam around the edge of a lake, we dispelled them by visiting the active volcano Iou-zan (literally "sulphur mountain"). Here numerous steam jets eject from the side of the hill, leaving the characteristic yellow colour and pungent odour of sulphur. It's a spectacular sight, a wonder to behold and amazing to contemplate what's going on beneath your feet! Inside a nearby souvenir shop, you can buy eggs boiled in the hot springs of Iou-zan.
From a distance, Iou-zan billows steam into the air.
The warning sign tells it all.
Boiling water and steam fizzing out of this hole.
Nice warm spot on a cold day.
As soon as we arrived, we knew the Yoroushi Yuyado Dai-Ichi Ryokan would be a highlight of the trip, a destination in itself, and we should have spent two nights here. It's such a shame we arrived at sunset. The lobby area was large and welcoming, with a firepit and large windows to a beautiful snowy creek replete with birdlife. Management leave food for the birds, and the clientele, mostly photographers judging from the cameras and lenses, lap it up.
Woodpecker emblem of the Yoroushi Yuyado Dai-Ichi Ryokan.
Cosy lobby and common area of the Yorouchi Ryokan.
Predawn outlook from our room.
The very pretty Euasian Jay with his eye on some tucker.
Looks like this Jay is being fed the rock-fish leftovers from last night.
Great Spotted Woodpecker just like at the Yorouchi Ryokan entrance.
Our room in this ryokan was unusual but traditional. The sleeping tatami was in a loft upstairs which we had to crawl into, because the ceiling height was only 1500mm. And we had no private bath or shower - guests here have to use the onsen! The onsen abutted the creek, and was a complex of rockpools and tubs of varying temperatures, indoors and outdoors. There was a large pool for both sexes, defying that old Edo edict requiring segregation to avoid moral depravity.
Red fox by the creek in Yorouchi.
Danger is this lady's business as Mike swings the mallett to make rice-cake.
Departing guests have their boots neatly laid out for them.
Japanese onsen tradition has particular towelling requirements. The only towel you take to the hot bath is what we could call a "hand towel", and while in the preparatory shower you can wash down with it, when you take it to the bath, it must never enter the water. Most bathers place theirs on their head, or on a nearby rock. Regardless, they still get soaking wet from all the steam, and we proved at this onsen that the laws of physics still apply - spinning it around wet in way sub-zero conditions soon freezes it. You are still expected to dry yourself with this soggy towel, and the conditions in the locker room are usually so dry, the heated humidity so low, that this works OK.
Having explained to our guide, Steve, that we were unable to find out what we were eating in the kaiseki meals, and that this was reducing the experience, he (who doesn't eat with us) went to great trouble to translate the menu for us, and helped us to select the main course. This was a great assistance, and we thank him for his responsiveness, and also, here, the staff tried hard to tell us what the various food items were, mostly fish, shrimp and shellfish as is befitting for a seaside village.
