Wet and Steamy in Rotorua

Over the years we have travelled all over the world, and have never seen anything quite like Rotorua. We've been to hot springs towns in the Rockies, and in Alaska and elsewhere in New Zealand on other trips, but nowhere is the geothermal activity so extensive and obvious as it is here.

In many places on the drive in from Taupo, steamy vapours are seen to issue from rivers and cavities, and as you approach Rotorua, they become much more numerous. In Rotorua itself, the whole city seems to be a bubbling cauldron, with countless little patches of water giving off steam, some even bubbling away.

Geothermal watching is a very commercial activity in Rotorua. It costs $50 for admission to Te Puia, a Maori theme park with the best access to the Pohutu Geyser. Everywhere else is cheaper, but the locals know how to make a dollar from their great natural resource. Having said that, there are many places in town where these amazing sights can be seen, and sulphurous odours can be smelled for free.

After over two weeks of squally weather in New Zealand, the rain has now set in seriously and pretty well continuously. This limited our getting around a bit, and to keep dry during the steadiest of rain, we visited the Rotorua Museum, a magnificent Tudor style mansion, constructed in 1908 (opened 100 years ago today, as it happens) as a bathhouse. The building was never fully completed, but as a centenary project, it is now undergoing extensions to fulfil the architect's original design. The bathhouse was used for the rehab of injured soldiers after the first world war. The Museum is well worth a visit without needing rain as an excuse. The preserved bathhouse rooms are particularly interesting, as are the exhibits and the basement areas.

A cinema room shows a movie with the history of the district. This is fascinating, and extemely well produced. The New Zealanders involved had a wicked sense of humour, and did not take the movie project too seriously, making it very entertaining as a result. It is notable that the Maoris of the 19th Century discovered the value of money and how they could make it easily by charging the tourists to view the attractions. That fine tradition carries on today, as mentioned. It was a great surprise (for we did not know it was coming) when the seats "rattled and rolled" during the earthquake / volcano scenes.

To improve our spirits during the miserable weather, we spent a few hours at the Polynesian Spa. This is not a cultural experience, and we suspect it is not local Maoris making money out of this particular enterprise! The Spa is listed by Conde Nast Traveller as one of the "Top 10", and its adult pools and private pools are geothermal mineral water of various temperatures with great views over Lake Rotorua and its wildlife (mostly seagulls). This place is, unsurprsingly, really popular with Japanese tourists who arrive in busloads.Luckily the Spa is big enough to absorb them all comfortably.