Many States make light work of the journey to Natchez...

Our next major stopping place was to be Natchez MS, and to get there we decided (again) to partly follow the River Road, and partly the Natchez Trace Parkway, with an overnight break in Vicksburg MS. The route we chose had us leaving Tennessee, and going through Mississippi, Arkansas and Louisiana.

Memphis is right on the Mississippi border, so it didn't take us long to leave Tennessee. For about 25 miles after crossing into Mississippi and following the river south, there was a constant stream of casinos. Clinging to the border like this, we figure that gambling must be illegal in Tennessee or Arkansas or both, and this plethora of gaming palaces must be placed to service an unmet demand! Whatever, these enterprises were serviced by an excellent 4 lane highway, and so we covered the distance quickly.

Larger farms have complicated grain-handling facilities.

After Lula, we were able to trace the road immediately on the eastern side of the river (MS-1), but, disappointingly, we still barely got a glimpse of the river. A high levee follows the river to protect against floods - it's possible to go up on the levee in many places, but even then the river may be well hidden behind trees. At Rosedale, there is a large port (the largest in Mississippi, according to something we read) and so the river is accessible, but it is particularly unphotogenic here.

Large flat farms in the Mississippi River breadbasket are irrigated by huge watering machines.

Jim Henson, the creator of Kermit the Frog hails from Mississippi state.

The Mississippi River near Lake Providence LA is lined with river houses many of which have private decks over the water.

We crossed the border into Arkansas between Greenville MS and Fairview AR. Surprisingly and confusingly, the road follows the river upstream for 5 miles or so before heading south again. Along this stretch the river is close and visible, so maybe flooding is not a problem here? Then, after another 20 miles or so of flat farmland on US-65 south, you suddenly cross into Louisiana, and near the town of Lake Providence, we saw many houses right on the river with rustic wharves, piers and decks over the water. These are quite pretty. Then, back across the river for an overnight stop in Vicksburg MS.

Joseph Biedenham "The First Bottling of Coca Cola" which took place in Vicksburg by an entrepreneurial shop-keeper (c) Paul Lowry

The I-20 cruelly bisects the retail business centre of Vicksburg, leading to some very confusing navigation, but, thanks to Clare's research, we found a very pleasant restaurant, Billy's Italian, for the evening meal. This unpretentious place is apparently a Vicksburg institution, and can't be too highly recommended. Very popular too! And for coffee the next morning, we found Caffe Paradiso. The cappucino was good but the business was suffering - the owner told us it's because he can't do drive-thru sales because of the layout. He called it the "money window". Surprisingly, he was a soccer fanatic, and a Manchester United fan to boot. English soccer was playing on the TV in the cafe. He said he had dreams of moving to Europe one day.

Mostly we stopped the car to take photographs!

The next day, we took the southern part of the Natchez Trace Parkway from near Jackson MS right through to Natchez. Driving these Parkways in winter is just so pleasant! And it's a good way to learn much of Amercican history. First of all, its important to understand what the word "trace" means in this context - effectively, its a path marked out by the passage of travellers, be they human or animal. The original Natchez Trace (which the new, manicured and beautifully well paved Parkway closely follows), was worn by animals and then native Indians, linking various Mississippi tribes along the Nashville - Natchez diagonal. In 1801 President Thomas Jefferson further devloped the trace for strategic purposes, and the trace, and the towns along it, became important in the Civil War (1860's).

Imformal cemetery for the Patterson family on the old Natchez Trace near Port Gibson MS.

In some places the original trace is "sunken", soft earth worn down by traffic or years and years.

There are no cross-roads on Parkways. All intersections are accompanied by bridges over or under the road, often with rustic bridges like this one.

The town of Port Gibson lies just off the Parkway, and the battle centred there in 1863 (which included naval battles with "iron clads" on the Mississippi) turned this part of the Civil War in favour of the Union. We were told that victorious Union General, Ulysses Grant, regarded the town as "too beautiful to burn" so he refrained from razing it to the ground, apparently the fate of most defeated towns, like Vicksburg. Accordingly, the town is now a collection of fine old buildings, but it now looks extremely poor and depressed. The population is predominantly black, and it doesn't look as though there is much work here.

~1840 Greek Revival building escaped burning by the Union Army after the Confederate Loss in the Battle of Fort Gibson.

The Church of the Golden Hand has a unique spire in Port Gibson.

How Port Gibson is a port is mysterious to us. It's miles up a tributary to the Mississippi called Bayou Pierre, but at the moment, that creek resembles the NSW Darling River in drought. Maybe it was more fluid in earlier days?

Port Gibson also has an interesting role in Civil Rights history - in 1966, a prolonged black boycott of white owned businesses ultimately led to a Supreme Court decision rejecting compensation claims by the whites. This victory is permanently and prominently recorded in a giant mural in the Port Gibson town square.

The boycott of white merchants in Port Gibson was vidicated by the US Supreme Court in a significant Civil Rights judgement.

The Parkway passes Indian mounds, the largest of which is called "Emerald", quite close to Natchez. Learning about these teaches us ignorant Aussies much more about American Indian culture than we have learned from the movies. These cermonial mounds were built by Mississippi Period natives 800 years ago (!!!) and were still in use until 1730 when the population was disturbed, diseased and decimated by the Spanish and French. Substantial structures were constructed atop Emerald Mound. It is astounding to contemplate the work necessary to construct these mounds - the Mississippians were also accomplished farmers, succesfully cultivating corn, beans and squash, and were skilled hunters and fishermen. Sadly, thanks to white settlement, as a tribe, Mississippi Indians have been blown to the winds.

Part of Emerald Mound, ceremonial site for Mississippian Indians.

Believed ceremonial structure atop Emerald Mound, from Natchez Visitors Welcome Centre.

The 444 mile long Natchez Trace Parkway, of which we drove maybe 160 miles, has delighted and educated us. It comes to its end in Natchez, and the final drive into town is along tree lined streets and passes beautiful old homes. We look forward to our stay in this town!