Acadian Shores of Nova Scotia

The next section of our Nova Scotian drive covered the stretch from Cape Sable Island (where we couldn't find the lighthouse in heavy rain) up to Saint Bernard. On our tourist map, this territory is referred to as Yarmouth and Acadian Shores. Icelander Leif Eriksen was believed to be the first European to visit here (~1000AD), but the French get most credit, first arriving in 1604, and establishing a settlement soon after. These Acadians, as their decendents are known, had fought with the British and the native Mi'kmaq, and now seem to form enclaves around this coast.

Acadian church near Pubnico NS.

We note some considerable tension between the French and the English in the people we speak to and elsewhere - this is no doubt genetic after numerous wars during the 17th and 18th Centuries. For much of this section, the only radio stations were in French, but most business signage is in English. Almost no-one opens conversations in French, so we suspect English has won out, while French is a culture preserved at home and legally. There were, however, several French 'ecoles' evident as we drove around.

The Acadian flag identifies much of the coast north & south of Yarmouth. Good to see the correct spelling of the Municipality of Clare!

Very picturesque grey sand beach at Cape St Mary.

As we headed north, the characteristic southern geography of numerous large coastal inlets we saw in the south gave way to a relatively linear coastline with small and beautiful features, and the tourist route, now called the Evangeline Trail more or less paralled the main route 101, but went through all the interesting towns. Evangeline, A Tale of Acadie is the sad heroine of another epic poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (1847). In the poem, Evangeline was separated from her lover Gabriel by the British when they forcibly expelled the Acadians (many of whom went to Louisiana as Cajuns).

Our route along the Arcadian Shores was named after Evangeline.

Old wooden lobster pots seem to have been largely replaced on modern fishing boats.

The town of Yarmouth was apparently established (1759) by settlers from Sandwich in Massachusetts escaping the Seven Years War (which in North America proved to be prdeominantly a victory by England over France). It was our base for exploring this part of Nova Scotia. We stayed at a very ordinary motel, but found an interesting, rustic place to dine known as Rudders Seafood on the waterfront. The town claims to be the centre of "the world's largest lobster fishing ground" so we had ceasar salad with lobster, of course. The rain was so heavy, we didn't have the opportunity to enjoy the seafront vista of Rudders. The only espresso we could find in Yarmouth was quite close to Rudders, at the back of a pharmacy, and the barista did a good job translating our unusual language and requirements.

Colourful fishing boats and floats aboud in Nova Scotia, these near Yarmouth.

Old cottage on boggy ground on Cape Forchu near Yarmouth.

Luckily, the pattern of alternate good and bad days continued, and were soon able to travel out to the Yarmouth Light on the French named Cap-Fourchu (Forked Cape). Of all the lighthouses, this is one of the most spectacular. We think it is no longer in use, a sign says it has been "given to the community", the first such in all Canada. It and its surrounds are in excellent order and condition, so we think the community is doing a good job.

The Yamouth Light is buffeted by full force Atlantic surf.

The beautiful Yarmouth Light is set on a high bluff right at Cape Forchu. The cafe & museum is closed.

As we drove, from Metaghan on, the coastline enters the protection of the hugely long St. Mary's Bay.

Looking across St. Mary's Bay to Long Island from near St. Bernard.