A hidden gem - Quebec City!!!

Sunrise over the old city, and the St Lawrence River in the background.

Our good friend Jack from Skykomish WA recently sent us a New York Times article 52 Places to Go in 2015. Not in this year of course, but we've already made a good start, but one place on the list we have just ticked off is Quebec City. In three days here we have learned that this is the most glorious city, maybe the highlight of our trip. It's also most photogenic, which is why there's so many pics in this post.

Moon rising over Quebec. Carnaval castle boittom right. Chateau Frontenac at left.

Quebec City is the capital of the Quebec Province. Its name is from a native American dialect and means 'where the river narrows' which indeed it is. It was founded in 1608 by French explorer Samuel de Champlain. Quebec has been attacked by the British (who held it for 4 years around 1760) and (almost) by the United States (in 1812). Huge still-intact fortifications in old Quebec, the Citadelle de Québec were constructed in the 1820's to thwart further American advances.

Some of dozens of canon guarding Quebec from the river. We think they may still be loaded, to fend of future attacks from Britain and America!

Purely by chance, we arrived here on the opening day of the Carnaval de Quebec whose theme this year is Le Monde de Bonhomme. The city is packed with tourists, mostly families it seems, because the young seem to be a major target of the carnival activities. Whatever, great life has been brought to Quebec by this annual event. The streets are crowded with visitors. Attractions include snow sculptures, a large ice castle, and many rides involving toboggans, rubber doughnuts, snowboards etc. By observation, most people visiting the Carnaval are Francophones from Canada, but it has wider appeal because there are many US visitors here as well. We were lucky to get our hotel room booking, we think.

Colourful flags at the Carnaval de Quebec.

Downhill glissade took many forms at the Carnaval de Quebec.

This ice castle is the "Palace de Bonhomie" at the Carnaval de Quebec.

We spent almost all our time here in the old historical district of Quebec. We recognise that there is a lot more to this city, but Vieux-Québec has so much to offer a visitor, we couldn't escape! The buildings are fascinating and photogenic. Historically, the highlights are the fortifications and the Chateau Frontenac, a magnificent hotel built on top of the bluff facing the river by the railways in the grand era of rail tourism. This building is claimed to be the most photographed hotel in the world.

The incredible Chateau Frontenac as seen from below the city fortifications.

Some years ago, a ski tow at Chateau Frontenac!

The Chateau Frontenac seen from Rue Ste Anne.

Alongside the Frontenac on top of the battlements is the popular and beautiful Terrace Bufferin , the top meeting spot in Quebec. This leads to the quite new Promenade des Gouveneurs, a suspended walkway which clings to the side of the fortifications and basically takes you round the Citadelle and into the south side of the city. We discovered, accidentally, that walking this way gets you into the paid area of the Carnaval without a ticket!

Wooden sleds reach high speeds on this slope at the Terrace Dufferin.

As far as tourists are concerned, the main street of the old town is Rue St-Jean which is replete with shops and cafes. We found good food and coffee locations here. One very popular spot was the Pub Saint-Alexandre - most of the patrons seemed to be visitors escaping the cold. It took a determined hostess to find us a table, and we were very well placed to enjoy the live music.

This machine shaves the ice rink near the Porte St-Jean before opening for the day.

Gate to the Old City on Rue St.Jean.

Restaurant on Rue St.Jean.

This pub has the formula right. It was packed to the rafters at 4pm on a freezing Saturday, live folk music being played.

Contemporary artworks on sale in Quebec City.

An unexpected busker freezing his butt near an old city gate.

Well patronised practice rink in the Citadel area of Quebec.

The oldest part of the old city is Basse-Ville, the low part adjacent to the river and below the fortifications. The narrow streets down here are some of the oldest in North America, cobbled surface of course. Now they are among the cutest too, packed with souvenir shops, bars and cafes, most participating brightly in Carnaval with decorations and an ice-sculpture competition. To get down to this part of town, we walked down steep (and slippery) streets and steps. There is a small funicular for the frail and the lazy.

Rue du-Petit-Champlain, one of the oldes and narrowest in North America.

Ice sculptures are very competitive, sponsored by businessses in the lower old-town.

Decorative mural adds character to the Petit-Champlain area in the lower old town.

A welcome brazier to warm up frozen hands.

One of dozens of ice sculpures competing for attention in Petit-Champlain.

One of dozens of ice sculptures competing for attention in Petit-Champlain.

The "free" funicular to link the upper & lower old-towns actually costs $2.25 and departs from inside a tiny souvenir shop.

We had French Onion Soup with local cheese at Le Lapin Saute in the Basse-Ville.

Warm mulled wines hit the spot on a freezing day.

Just one example of delighful residences in Vieux-Quebec.

Intriguing devices with no obvious purpose in the Quartier Petit-Champlain.

The river itself, the Fleuve Saint-Laurent, is the stuff of schoolday memories for us. We both remember learning of the great St Lawrence Seaway, its system of locks and how it opens up the Great Lakes to massive maritime trade. Quebec is downstream of the locks (maybe we will see some as we drive further up-river later) and to see the mighty river here is awe inspiring. Niagara Falls feeds this waterway, and sometimes we see the ice floes moving downstream, sometimes not, due to the tides. The ocean tides are felt as far upriver as Quebec, but not further upstream, we read. It's interesting to watch the ferries battling the floes and the variable tides as they cross the river in pairs.

The St. Lawrence Seaway is party frozen but trade continues.

The St Lawrence Seaway connects the North American Great Lakes to the Atlantic Ocean. Source: Wikipedia.

An ice-breaker leads the way for a cargo vessel past the Seminary in Quebec City.

The ferry fighting tide and ice floes on St Lawrence has a few cars on board, clearing up our confusion on arrival at Quebec.

Ice floes move in both directions depending on the tide. Areas with no current are frozen over.

Ships making way through ice floes on the lower reaches of the St Lawrence Seaway. Quebec Seminary at bottom left.

Througout our stay in Quebec City, we were very lucky with weather. Brilliant sunshine occupied our entire stay, although it was windy and about -15C. The wind chill effect made it feel really, bitterly, cold! We would rather this than having it warm up and rain, as we have seen/suffered previously on this trip.

The outdoor swimming pool at our hotel. You get out with frozen ears and hair.

All through our travels in 'Northern Canada' we have seen mention and images of Inuit rock statues called inuksuit. These are man-like monuments made of unfinished natural stones. The singular name, inukshuk, means 'a likeness of man'. Their traditional purpose was varied, typically to point direction. But we hadn't seen one in a natural setting good enough or close enough to photograph until we got to Quebec where there is an imposing inukshuk in the gardens in front the Provincial Parliament. We also saw ice versions which we think are there for the Carnaval.

Snow covered inukshuk protects the parliament in Quebec.

For Carnaval, an ice inukshuk!