12 February, 2017

Española and the Nazca Boobies...


After sailing from San Christobal, we visited Isla Española. This, the southernmost and driest Galapagos island, used to be called Hood Island, but we are now realising that the anglo-names of many locations, presumably endowed by early English visitors, such as Charles Darwin, have been replaced by Spanish names, posession being nine tenths of the law.

Sea lions seem particularly comfortable on this Espanola beach.


Our day on this island set the tone for the entire Galapagos expedition. Lindblad like to get you up early (5:30am) and fill the day with photographic, educational and recreational activities, all blended into a busy but fun program. On this one day, we could swim, snorkel, kayak and hike, and it was our first real exposure to the unique Galapagos' wildlife that makes it so famous.

Marine iguana enjoying the view of the tourists.


It's hot in this place (no surprises, on the equator), and the hiking is arduous. We start to see some of Lindblad's method. They schedule hot hikes for early and late in the day, and we engage in water activities in the heat of the day.

Lava lizard surveying all around him from one of the trail markers.


Characteristic green and red coloration of Espanola marine iguanas.


Today, after a dry landing, the walking track at Punta Suárez was quite treacherous, a real "boulder hopper", as guides led us on approved trails through a coastal wilderness where we saw close up dozens if not hundreds of colourful marine iguanas, and families of Nazca Boobies (eastern Pacific, not endemic, hanging around in great accumulations of stomach-turningly smelly guano), not to mention the extremely brightly colored sally-lightfoot crabs. All of these guys seem quite oblivious to our presence. We are warned not approach within 2 metres, but any of these locals are wont to coming a lot closer of their own accord.

Nazca Booby guarding her egg.


Laying down the law from his guano covered rock.


Chick seeking attention of his Nazca Booby parent.


Baby booby training by playing with a dead bird.


Endemic Galapagos dove scurries around the undergrowth with his startling blue eyes.


Wave splashed rocks are a favourite haunt for these sally-lightfoot crabs.


Sally Lightfoot Crabs provide specatcular colour!


True to Darwin's findings, Española has some of its own species distinct to related versions found on other Galapagos islands, such as the Española mockingbird and the Española lava lizard. Wandering around, we come across the tiny lava lizards, we found that the mocking-birds are quite curious and try to get under your feet, and occasionally spy Darwin's Finches and other small fellows. Gulls and frigate birds soar overhead. This particular walk featured a very pretty blowhole which spumed frequently.

After a clash in priorities became evident, Lindblad started to divide hikes into "photographers" and "natural historians".


The reds of some marine iguanas are quite vivid.


Cute little pup tucked up awaiting mum's return from the sea.


Impressive blowhole, looks to be more frequent and reliable than the one in Kiama.


Water sports on Española supplied relief from the heat. Today, at Gardner Bay, on the white sandy beach, we saw many sea lions, and they swim past us speedily. The snorkelling was pleasant, the water being quite balmy and clear, but there is little to no coral. The fish are interesting though, but they don't pose for photographs.

Galapagan local guide Socrates leading us in the dive.


Not much coral, but the water is clear and the fish are colorful.

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