Wallis and Futuna is a French collectivity in the South Pacific Ocean separate to French Polynesia to the far east and New Caledonia to the west. It was a long overnight sail in the Orion from Taveuni in Fiji. The population is about 11,000 and declining. Almost all are Polynesians, a small minority French. Greater employment opportunities have led to there being more W&F citizens in New Caledonia than here. Of course, prior to this expedition, we had never heard of Wallis and Futuna. The two island (groups) of this tiny nation are about 260km apart.
the oldest indications of human presence in W&F date are from the Lapita people back to 850BC. Tongan Polynesians invaded in the 15-16th Centuries with varied success. Futuna strongly retains much of pre-Tongan culture, but Wallis much less so. Thanks to missionaries, Fortuna is strongly Catholic, with Father Pierre Chanel converting many in the mid 1800's, but he was murdered by a local chief who thought (probably rightly) that his reputation and power was being undermined by this new god.
Zodiac on the way to a beach on Futuna. [4500]
The NatGeo Orion as seen from Futuna. [4512]
Our plan was to visit Futuna for a mostly cultural visit in the morning, and for beach recreation in the afternoon. Overnight we sailed to Wallis where more beach fun was planned, but that was foiled by rain and in particular wind, so the Orion set off early for Samoa.
A musical welcome by a Futuna string band. [4508]
Fiona Wardle, a Brit turned Kiwi, is a Naturalist and Photo Instructor on the expeditaion, here riding with me in the back of a pickup truck. [4517]
Expedition Leader Karla, being careful riding in the back of a ute, our transport in Futuna. [4523]
Said to be the world's last remaining cannibal oven, this one used by warrior Papa. [4528]
Jenny Kingsley, a French speaking Canadian is a journalist and author specialising in personal stories. She amazed us with her brilliantly told tales of a three year journey in the Arctic and Polynesia, just talking to people and following their directions on who to interview next. [4530]
Few visitors arrive in Futuna so the two small minibuses are supplemented by a fleet of pickup trucks to handle us 60. [4531]
The lush tropical forests of Futuna. [4539]
Great view of the Futuna coast with the town of Poi visible centre left. [4567]
But the day at Futuna went ahead as planned. Futuna gets few visitors - one guide said only 300/year - so it must be a big occasion when us 60 arrived. Tourism is clearly not one of its main income sources, the main ones being fishing rights licensing, copra, chemicals(?) and fish. Most people are involved in subsistence agriculture, coconuts, vegetable, pigs and fishing.
The cathedral at Poi on Futuna, where Polynesia's only Saint, Pierre Chanel, was martyred by a threatened chieftain. [4547]
Tradional warrior's welcome at the site of the Poi cathedral. [4549]
Inside of the Poi cathedral. [4542]
Ceiling detail inside the museum at Poi cathedral. [4546]
We enjoyed a feast of papaya and other local fruits during our visit to Poi. [4552]
The Expedition Team on NatGeo Orion know that in these hot and humid conditions, we, the guests, really appreciate a swim in the balmy waters of the South Pacific Ocean! On the morning of our visit to Futuna, they delivered again, even though we missed the snorkel in the afternoon.
Split view above and below the water on a sandy beach on Futuna. [0673]
Collection of shells oon a beach on Futuna. [0674]
Where we took photos in the tiny French outpost of Wallis and Futuna.
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