It's a pleasant roughly one hour's drive to get from Abashiri to the seaside town of Utoro (not to be confused with Otaru back near Sapporo, which we have repeatedly done), basically following the coast of the Sea of Okhotsk, to the Shiretoko Peninsula. The peninsula must trap the drift ice because as we travel, it seems to get thicker and closer to the shore.
We stopped at the observatory in the town of Koshimizo on the way. We'd call it a "look out", but whatever it's called, it gave us splendid views all around and particularly to the mountain ranges of the peninsula. The most spectacular from this vantage point was Mount Shari. Steve said that heliskiing is popular on Shari.
Very icy path and steps up to the Koshimizo observatory.
View of Mount Shari from about 50km away at the Koshimizo observatory.
Steve and Clare in the Koshimizo Observatory.
The JR train towards Utoro stops at tiny stations like this one at Koshimizo
It was past sunset when we exited from one of many road tunnels as we cut under ridges leading into the sea, and suddenly were in Utoro. We checked into the Shiretoko Grand Hotel Kitakobushi which was to be our home for two nights while we explored this locality. Kaiseki dinners are wonderful experiences, but they do wear thin when they come back to back, so it was a pleasure to encounter what was a superb Japanese dinner buffet with enough western options to please everyone. This large hotel in a small town had a bar which we made use of for Japanese whiskey and mojitos both nights, with no sign of any other customers, and no cover charge either! The bar area of the hotel was a great place to relax, with an open gas fire, and opening out to a terrace area with a steaming hot footbath, overlooking the harbour.
Amazing glimpse of the drift ice along the shore as we cruise towards Utoro.
Sunset near Utoro at the waters edge, a fragile soggy zone where the drift ice bumps into the shore.
A short drive out of town took us to the Nature Centre of Shiretoko National Park from which we were able to take a very pleasant about 2km walk (with non-slip grips fitted to our boots) to the mostly frozen Furepe Falls which we were able to view from the top, and a nearby lighthouse. It was a gorgeous day, sunny with little wind, and the snow packed down enough that we didn't need snow-shoes. The only critters we saw were a few deer who seemed to be searching in vain for any food in the heavy snow. On the walk, many trees had netting to protect them from deer attack. A pleasant, non-demanding walk on a beautiful day.
Frozen Furepe Falls with its cascade of ice into the Sea of Okhotsk.
Lighthouse and hungry deer near Furepe Falls.
Ice whiskers at the top of the falls.
Stunning vista from Furepe Falls of mountains along the Shiretoko Peninsula.
Gatepost.
Model at the Nature Centre showing a summer version of the walk to the falls.
One of several works exhibited at the Nature Centre by local artist Toyomi Tanaka. Those deer have to be careful.
After a curry lunch at the Nature Centre, we returned to town for a Drift Ice Walk. We had no idea what this would entail, and afterwards we decided that it was an activity more suited for children than adults. In a little office a party of about 20 had to remove boots, coats, wallets and watches and don a very thick wet-suit with built-in boots, sealed around the neck and wrists. Our expensive camera was left in the car. Waterproof gloves were pulled on. Small cameras and phones were placed all together in a waterproof bag. We were given thick beanies. Then we were bussed about 3 minutes to one of Utoro's harbours.
There we slithered down an icy staircase, across a soggy land-water interface and onto the frozen surface of the harbour, pretty smooth and snow covered. After about 50m we reached the drift ice which was much more uneven and difficult to walk on. Somehow, the drift ice prevents the harbour from freezing, so the surface is pretty thin in patches. It can be broken through, and many deliberately made holes and jumped in, squealing hysterically. The vey buoyant wetsuits prevented sinking. Crew members (wearing ice diving gear in case of problems) sorted through the collected phones and cameras and took everyone's photos.
We didn't bother with the freezing water dip, but even on the surface, with almost no wind, it was freezing cold, and were pleased when, about half an hour later, we were herded back to the shore. Before we got back on the bus, we removed our wetsuits. Everyone shivered on the bus with very few clothes on, for the drive back. It was good to have a spell in the onsen to recover core temperature lost during this fairly fruitless activity.
A discovery right in Otoro town, a steaming "waterfall onsen".
Fishing boats having the winter off in Utoro. The rock formation on the left is a town icon.
Drift ice outside Utoro Harbour, with a glimpse of our hotel far left.
Whilst strolling the town after a day's activities, we were amazed to realise the amount of hotel "real estate" dedicated to that wonderful Japanese tradition of onsen, scalding hot baths taken naked with other people. The top floor and the roof of our hotel can be seen to be dedicated to onsen, and the outdoor baths, which we always prefer to the inside ones, had a great view over Utoro harbour.
The Shiretoko Grand Hotel Kitakobushi, with two floors of onsen on top.
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