The Oshin-Koshin Falls, fairly close to Utoro, is one the 100 most beautiful waterfalls in Japan.
This sika deer farm was originally established to protect the species, but now provides vension for human consumption.
Wary red fox somewhat spooked by our interest.
We had to take the long way from Otoro to the other side of the Shiretoko Peninsula because the most direct road is routinely closed in winter. In crossing this peninsula we passed through numerous standalone tunnels which were out in the fields and not obviously for avalanche or rockfall. Steve explained that they were in high wind areas. Before going to our utimate destination, we spent an hour or two on the Notsuke Peninsula, a tiny and narrow curved sand spit with a reputation for good wildlife spotting.
Recent wildlife spottings map inside the Notsuke Peninsula Nature Centre.
Spottings were sparse. We did see a herd of male sikadeer, red foxes, and one or two Stellers Sea Eagles at a distance, looking for fish. The peninsula does have a very nice Nature Centre to visit, and we spent some time in an excellent bird hide, but saw nothing from there. Interestingly, the sika deer were once widespread over East Asia, but it's only in Japan now where it is "overabundant".
Offshore from the Notsuke Peninsula, and disconcertingly close, is Kunashir Island, one of four disputed Kuril Islands claimed and occupied by Russia but disputed by Japan. When you look at a map of Hokkaido, it's rather difficult to rationalise the Russian claim.
Lighthouse on the Notsuke Peninsula with the disputed Russian island nearby offshore.
Then north to the little fishing village of Rausu (pop 5,300), the name taken from an Ainu word, maybe meaning "place of mean with beast-like spirit". The proximity of Kunashir Island is evident here too, and also in the language you hear spoken around town. In Rausu we encounted more "westerners" than we have seen anywhere else in Hokkaido - Russians, Europeans, a few Brits, Americans, Aussies.
No wonder the town is named after Mt. Rausu.
Stellars Sea Eagle soaring before the hills of Rausu.
The port town of Rausu.
We had two main objectives in Rausau, to spot the rare Blakistons Fish Owl and to go eagle spotting from a boat. Both these activities were successful, but in what proved to be highly contrived situations.
The Blakistons Fish Owl
is the largest species of owl and is only found in Hokkaido and is named after the dude who first found him in Hakodate in 1883. Thomas Blakiston also observed that species in parts of Hokkaido differed to those in others, the boundary now being called the "Blakiston Line." The owl lives in "riparian forest, with large, old trees for nest-sites, near lakes, rivers, springs and shoals that don't freeze in winter" (Wikipedia).
Anyway, to catch a glimpse of this owl, we visit a budget hotel which runs along such a river, quite near the coast, where the owner has built a long thin hide which he rents out to people with long lenses. No smartphones here. Our itinerary referred to the wait as Owashi no Yado - we think that's the name of the hotel. There is a "special" light which somehow don't distract the owl, then seeds a pool in the river with fish, and then we wait. Shutter speeds have to be set at 1/80sec or slower so apparently the special lights are a strobe. We were lucky, the elusive owls appeared twice after dusk and before our scheduled dinner time - they hadn't appeared for days previously, and Steve (afterwards) admitted that he's never seen the owl in this place before. On two visits, an owl appeared like a ghost, grabbed a hapless fish, and flew away within seconds, all to the clatter of a dozen or so motor drive shutters working overtime. We heard that the next appearance was at 2am. Blakistons Fish Owl is big and beautiful, and the ones we saw had fluffed up feathers which made them look quite rotund. Many of our fellow photographers spoke Russian, and one, not too bright, tried to use flash to take his pics, but was quickly dealt with by the owner who was very generous to us, providing seats, a heater and a pair of good binoculars.
The moment the Blakistons Fish Owl grabs his fish...
Takes off with it...
Puts it in his mouth ...
And flies away!
We had a reservation for a cruise from Rausu Harbour to spot white tailed eagles or Stellers Sea Eagles, but Steve was concerned that it would be too windy/rough for it to go far. That turned out to be irrelevant - it barely goes 100m then the crew attracts eagles by throwing frozen fish into the water. Both species of eagles respond in force, and it is fascinating to watch them swoop, pick up the fish with their claws, then take off. The eagles complete with gulls who seem to be faster but often not quite strong enough to carry the fish, and drop them. The gulls grab the fish in their beak, and if they can hang onto it, seem to be able to down it in one big gulp.
We were one of three boats attracting eagles for hungry photographers.
We thought the cruise operators ran a fishing business on the side, but this how they attract the eagles.
White tailed eagle flies off with his catch.
Stellars Sea Eagle in flight.
Zeroing in for his catch, a Stellars Sea Eagle skims the water.
Another eagle spotting cruise inside the seawall.
White tailed eagle guards his fish on the seawall.
Our digs in Rausu, the ryokan Daiichi Hotel (we only know its name from our itinerary, it's not written in English anywhere) was about a kilometer from town up the summer road to Utoro, closed in winter. We enjoyed yet another kaiseki meal here, delicious, varied, but with no-one able to tell us what any item was. Many of the guests were westerners - this town is obviously the destination in Hokkaido for serious photographers! Our room was Japanese style of course and had a very small bathroom which, we now start to think, is meant to encourage guests to bathe communally in the onsen. Which was a good idea here, because the outdoor bath here must be one of the best around, a large rocky pool which could almost be natural, right at the bottom of the hill at the back of the hotel, filled with milky coloured, sulphur scented water. The men's outdoor bath was not private and could be seen from 8-10 hotel rooms and anyone walking the hill. Like almost everywhere we've stayed on this trip, the Daiichi had excellent free wifi.
The Daiichi Hotel had the best onsen of the trip.
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