No matter how you look at it, Paris is the most wonderful city, but a heatwave here over the last week has strained the friendship somewhat. On the familiar green Pharmacy beacons on every main street, we have seen temperatures up to 36C, and would not be surprised if it has been hotter than that. The city is sweltering, the crowded Metro is overpowering, the streets crowded with locals and tourists, but our hotel room has been blissfully cool and quiet. It's windy too, and the gravel surface has turned the beautiful Tuleries Gardens into an unpleasant dust storm. Some businesses use fans and sprayed water to cool passing potential customers in the hope that they will linger. In the late afternoon (like, 8pm) it was so oppressive and the sky so threatening that, in Sydney, a violent thunderstorm would be inevitable, but there was no such relief here.
Crepes, ice cream and mojitos in s shady cafe quickly became our "go to" refreshment on a hot afternnon.
Like in London, daylight seems to be eternal in this nothern summer. It's full daylight before 5am, and not really dark until 11pm. With this much sunshine, it's no wonder that Parisian buildings have such excellent shutters on their windows.
Our drive back into Paris was uneventful and much more relaxed than our departure a week ago. We had to return our car and get to the hotel. We had one interesting realisation - our route in took us around what is probably the world's most famous and notorious roundabout, the "star" at the Arc de Triomphe. It was surprisingly calm, and then we realised why - vehicles already in the roundabout have to give way to those entering. This is the opposite to roundabouts in Australia, and indeed outside of Paris, but it forces drivers in the roundabout to be much more careful.
We stayed at the Hilton Paris Opera on Rue St Lazare. Apparently, the building was once the forecourt of the next door Gare St Lazare. Large railway station concourses provide such wonderful opportunities for rebirthing! This is a splendid hotel, with a fabulously decorated lobby bar. Our room was not too big but really comfortable, and the bathroom was to die for.
The hot weather aside, we had a very relaxing time in Paris. We spent a month here 8 years ago, and felt no need to rush around to all the attractions. Instead, we spent most of our time doing much the same as we would do at home. Each morning, we left the hotel without a firm plan, and wandered off. Soon we would find somewhere for coffee, then later, somewhere for lunch. This is our idea of a holiday. In the afternoon, we would look for a "cleansing ale" at a suitable bar. The locals don't seem to have dinner until 9pm, but we rarely could wait that late despite the example set for us at the recent wedding celebrations.
The KB Cafe in Pigalle serves coffee that a Sydney-sider would recognise, and in a delightful location.
Paris is a great city to walk around, but this time in the heat, we also made good use of the Metro. This user friendly underground railway system is a model for public transport networks everywhere. A dozen or so separate lines criss-cross each other, with trains running every 3-5 minutes in each direction on every line. We were very impressed with the driverless trains on Line#1 - maybe there are others. Despite their frequency, the trains are almost always crowded - we rarely got a seat.
One of the most effective public transport systems anywhere, the Metro is mostly underground, but here the No.6 Line passes overhead through Grenelle.
Walking Paris is a neverending delight. Around every corner is some unexpected architectural masterpiece. If not that, then a beautiful park or fountain, or an intriguing courtyard or a lively market. The city is much cleaner than we remember it 8 years ago - or do they just spruce up the streets more conscientiously in summer?
Beggars and buskers abound in Paris. The tourists are fair game. When asked if you speak English, it's best to say "non" or even "nada"! We were accosted with the "dropped gold ring" scam on two occasions. That said, we were quite nervous about Paris in peak season, but the crowds and the crooks weren't as bad as we feared. The Africans who sell cheap Eiffel towers and other grubby souvenirs at popular spots like Sacre Coeur, Trocadero and the Louvre seem to be on their best behaviour though - maybe they are tolerated as long as they don't harass the vistors.
We were looking forward to seeing the famed Paris Plages, artifical beaches in scattered locations along the Seine, sand and palm trees included. Sunbaking only though, no swimming! But, despite the heatwave, they apparently don't put the sand there and start up the beaches until a week or so after Bastille Day - they opened the day we left Paris! We did see the preparations in place, though, and a few sun-lovers getting in early.
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