South of Kilkenny...

We used Kilkenny as our base for two full day trips to the south which at last took us off the tourist trail. We had done research beforehand on where to go, but our Garmin sat-nav (actually bought in America for previous road trips there, but now equipped with a Europe map added as an SD card) was essential for finding our way around. Whatever did we do before satellite navigation and GPS? Below are the highlights of two very full days on the road, not many miles, but lots of stops and diversions...

Without our sat-nav, we would not have been able to find our way around.

With our Garmin sat-nav set to "shortest route" sometimes we were led up the garden path.

The back roads we took were the Irish classics - narrow, windy and hemmed in tightly by high stone walls or hedges typically blooming with bright red fucias. Frequently, there is no side view from a road for miles.

Bicycling is popular (but hazardous) for recreation and transport, all over the Ireland we have seen.

Neat thatching on this house near Kells.

Kells (not the bigger one north-west of Dublin) is a cute and quiet little town with an ancient priory nearby whose ruins have been made safe for the public to roam around. There is an old mill nearby (the locals have hopes of resurrecting it), and the Kings River is crossed by a benchmark beautiful multiple arched stone bridge. What a picturesque town!

Multi-arched bridge over the Kings River, and mill sluice gate, in Kells (Kilkeny Co).

Partially restored ruins of Augustine Kells Priory and Abbey, 12-15C, built like a fort signifying troubled times.

Inistioge is another picture perfect village we visited, as is Thomastown which was said to be serene but was having its streets dug up en-masse when we were there. Nevertheless (thanks to the Lonely Planet), we found and had a delightful break at the Blackberry Cafe. We went looking for Clonegal but weren't sure that we actually found it. All villages are pretty in County Kilkenny!

Colorful flowers are everywhere in Ireland, and someone has to maintain them.

Arched bridge over the River Nore at pretty village Inistioge

Tractors, like this one in Inistioge, and often with long trailers, ply the narrow roads everywhere we have been.

Wind turbines for electricity generation dot the Irish countryside, some offshore, but "No More Turbines" posters suggest some community opposition. Near Dungarvan.

One of our day trips took us as far south as Ardmore in County Waterford. In this neat-as-a-pin seaside village, there were lots of visitors, but they were mostly Irish, not tourists from other parts of Europe, the USA or Australia. And the local children were alive and well and apparent in this town, with lots of fun being had in the harbour and on the beach. It's good to see such a lively village which is said (by Wikipedia) to be the oldest Christian settlement in Ireland. Saint Declan lived here in 350–450 AD and converted the inhabitants long before Saint Patrick's arrival on the island.

This plain brick wall at Ardmore has been decorated to look like thatched beach cottages.

At Ardmore, St Declan's stone has restorative properties if you crawl underneath it on Pattern Day.

The breakwater at Ardmore was being used for childrens water sports.

Youngsters practicing their hurling on Ardmore beach.

The 12th Century tower overlooking Ardmore.

The outskirts of Admore as seen from the ruins of the Oratory.

Our journey back towards Kilkenny from Ardmore was via a beautiful coast through Dungarvan (a big vibrant seaside town) and then through tiny places like Annestown. This section of the seaside was signposted the Copper Coast, and we could see ruins of copper mines, really close to the waterline - the landscape was totally reminiscent of BBC's Poldark (albeit set in Cornwall). Then we reached Tramore which reminds you of Brighton in England. A big Luna Park type carnival, an uninspiring but interesting beach, and very very crowded with cars, families and holiday accommodation.

Green fields and cliffs characterise much of the Irish coastline. This scene near Dunbrattin Head in Waterford Co. on the "Copper Coast" includes ruined copper mines.

Remains of a limekiln used for making fertilizer, at the beach at Annestown.

Not quite Bondi, the beach at Tramore is very popular at low tide on a grey day.

Waterford is, of course, the home of Waterford Crystal. It's also a significant port, and a decent sized city. Like many we have seen so far. Waterford is steeped with history, but clogged with cars. These places were never designed with traffic in mind. It took us a long time to get into and out of this town, but it was worth it to see its Medieval Triangle and the Waterford Crystal hanging in the cathedrals. Luckily, we have no room to buy anything here.

Reginald's Tower (1003AD) at the quay in Waterford is the oldest civic building in Ireland. Now hemmed in by other buildings and an obstacle for traffic.

Ten Waterford Crystal chandeliers enhance the interior of the Holy Trinity Cathedral.