25 July, 2015
The Delights of Dublin...
We flew Aer Lingus from Paris Charles de Gaulle to Dublin Ireland. Neither of us have been to Ireland before, so we were quite looking forward to it, not to mention an anticipated relief from the stifling heat of the French city. Aer Lingus seems to be a budget carrier - the tickets were cheap, but the extras for our check-in baggage more than doubled the cost!
The flight was packed, the most obvious demographic being French senior school students on some sort of extended excursion. They were having a good time, but were very well behaved - they looked to be good representatives of their country. The taxi driver on the way to our hotel told us that Ireland is really popular for European students because they can practice their English here. When you think of it, Ireland is the only Eurozone country where English is the first language.
We discovered that Dublin is full of Europeans, not only the French. There's barely room from any Irish in the CBD area. Another reason for Dublin's popularity, is how far a Euro goes here. Prices were noticeably lower than in Paris, so we suppose visitors come for the shopping too, as well as practicing their English.
The weather was pleasant, as hoped. Daily 15-20C was more comfortable than the 30-35C of Paris. Rain was forecast every day, but it never seemed to eventuate. Skies were generally overcast, with only occasional flashes of blue.
Our hotel was right on North Quay nearly opposite the famous old Ha'penny Bridge across the rather sad looking River Liffey and the uber-touristy Temple Bar district. You couldn't ask for a better location. It was very comfortable with a fabulous bathroom! We've stayed at Hiltons so much in recent years of travel that they have started to treat us like royalty! Which is very enjoyable.
Dublin is ancient. It lays claim to being the oldest city in Ireland - apparently this is disputed by Waterford. Ptolemy referred to a settlement here in 140AD. The Vikings had established villages in the 800'sAD, and remained in control until the Norman invasion in 1161AD (led by the formidable archer, Stringbow) and then the English a few years later. Trinity College, a Dublin institution, was founded in 1592, and still operates as a major research university. Ireland itself became an independent nation in 1922. Much of this long history is evident in the modern city of Dublin.
St. Patrick's cathedral in Dublin is special because not because is it the largest in Ireland, but because Saint Patrick himself is reputed to have done many of his good works around 500AD in the vicinity of the present site.
We found Dublin CBD to be friendly, vibrant and bustling. It has rough edges, a sort of a grunge about it, which somehow adds to the appeal. Early morning walks show that the city authorities work very hard in the morning to clean up detritus left by bars, restaurants, tourists and drunks the night before. The Temple Bar district is the centre of tourist partying, but there is much more to Dublin than this, with Trinity College, a "Viking/Medieval Area", shopping around Grafton and Henry Streets, impressive Georgian architecture, delightful parks like Merrion Square and St. Stephens Green, and a modern light-rail system.
Colourful summer flowers, geraniums, petunias and begonias, are everywhere in planter boxes, making the streets very pretty. It's amazing the trouble that everyone goes to, to establish and maintain these little gardens!
The River Liffey is rather dreary. It our entire stay here, we only saw one vessel, a tour boat, traverse this dark-coloured waterway, and it seems that significant commerce ceased around 1990. Old photos in pubs reveal a much more vibrant history. Downstream of the CBD and running north off the Liffey, the Royal Canal looks to be pretty-well defunct, crossed by derelict looking opening bridges. We don't know about the Grand Canal, further downtream.
On the days were were here, live music abounded. Buskers were everywhere, with the most popular genre being, not surprisingly, Traditional Irish Folk. In the Temple Bar hotel, the rabbit-warren of exceptionally small and character-filled rooms were packed to capacity attracted by mighty fine fiddling. We could hardly get in to take our photo. Other bars were quieter and less crowded, but still popular and interesting.
We found it easy to eat well here, a rather pleasant change from Paris. We enjoyed excellent meals every day, and not just at recommended restaurants in tourist guides. One excellent pub meal was at a modest place next door to Tara Street Station, apparently being patronised by city workers awaiting their train home.
Labels:
2015Paris,
Aer Lingus,
Dublin,
Ireland,
Molly Malone,
River Liffey,
Temple Bar
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