Athens - Hot and Bustling Metropolis...

At the Monument to the Unknown Soldier at Syntagma. [6584]

Humans first appeared in the Attica region of the Grecian peninsula about 12 thousand years ago (Why so late? It makes them Johnny-come-latelies compared to the Australian first nations people.) As a city, Athens is one of the world's oldest, with its recorded history starting in about 1400BC. Greek mythology has it that the city was named after Athena, an ancient goddess of wisdom, but scholars think it was really the other way round. Athens as a city-state (not Greece) is thought of as the cradle of Western civilization and the birthplace of democracy [ Wikipedia ], but its worth adding that the privileges of democracy in those days was wholly reserved for male citizens. Women, children and slaves were excluded, but free men were not only entitled to participate, but required to - shades of the Australian system of compulsory voting!

The Acropolis at night, with the Parthenon at left, and Erechtheum at right. [6663]

Greece's parliament building as viewed from the Acropolis hill. [9210]

Greece's official name is Hellenic Republic and it is a relatively small country by European standards, with a population of 10-11M. Athens metro area itself has 3.6M, (and everyone we talked to claimed relatives in Australia and reminded us that Melbourne is the world's third largest Greek city after Athens and Thessaloniki). The sense of the past is unavoidable in Athens, with human habitation from about 7-11,000BC and a recorded history dating back 3,400 years. There are ruins aplenty, especially from the Classical period, 5th and 4th centuries BC up to the death of Alexander the Great. We were fascinated to witness archeological digs in action in the northwestern corner of the Ancient Agora.

Painting, in the NJV Plaza Hotel, showing the goddess Athena. [0125]

Looking for a cool place for a light meal? [6620]

Areopagus Hill, a large bare rock, once served as the high court of appear in ancient Greece, is now a great place to catch the sunset.[6647]

On this trip to Greece, we spent a total of 14 nights over four stays in the capital city Athens. For each stay, our small (maybe 30 rooms?) boutique hotel was The Dolli, a brilliant restoration of a 4 storey mansion, a recommendation of the Greece-Mediteranean Travel in Sydney. The hotel was fantastically located away from the traffic in the Monastiraki district of Athens, in Mitropoleos street, really close to the Acropolis, and, we think, in a much better spot than the "flasher" hotels mostly near Syntagma. The staff here were nothing less than superb - that includes the front desk, the restaurant, housekeeping and management (Mary and Evriante). There were always two or more bellmen on duty, neatly uniform in grey slacks and t-shirts, and they could not be more helpful. One of them, George, with a wonderful moustache, helped us with our bags, a walk of 700m to meet up with the Sea Cloud crew, too short for any taxi to be interested.

The Dolli Hotel, with two of its exceptionally friendly staff. [6640]

The Hotel Dolli from the Acropolis, our room directly under the right hand umbrella in the restaurant. [9205]

This is how we knew we were on the 4th floor of the Hotel Dolli. [6728]

Our top floor room faced directly south to the famed Acropolis. It was simply wonderful to lie in bed and be able to gaze at this majestic monument from dawn to dusk, and through the night as the entire hill is beautifully illuminated. Our view was enhanced by a small balcony. The bathroom was superb with an electronic bidet and one of the best showers imaginable - hot, high pressure with four nozzles. Unlike on the islands, you can safely drink the tapwater in Athens, but the hotel still supplied us with as much bottled water as you want. Every evening we would return to the room to find some sort of treat had been left for us.

Martinis at 7:45pm at The Dolli. [6646]

Pigeon spied from our balcony at The Dolli. [6556]

Lycabettus Hill, at 277m, the real highest point in Athens, here seen from a rooftop bar in Plaka. [4455]

Directly above our room was the rooftop restaurant. There are many great rooftop views in the world's cities, and The Dolli surely has one of the best there is. An infinity pool next to the restaurant faces the Acropolis, and we cooled off in it every day. The smallish deck area beside the pool had inadequate shade, so we didn't hang around up there, but other hotel guests loved the hot sun and exposed themselves to it fulsomely. Thanks to Greek-Med Travel for arranging the Dolli and getting us such a brilliant room for each of our stays. The room was exquisite, but it had no work-desk, so the duty-manager happily found a suitable table for our computer and charging stations. That table was in place for each of our follow-up stays. Nothing was too much trouble at The Dolli.

Breakfast at The Dolli. [0617]

Every night we could lie in that bed and admire the glory of the Parthenon on the Acropolis. [6552]

The most glorious sight from The Dolli Hotel. What a location, with the area of Anafiotika at the base of the cliff. [6553]

The Byzantine era Church of Panagia Kapnikarea is one of the oldest in Athens, thought to date to 1050AD, built in the bustling Ermou Street atop an ancient temple dedicated to Athena or Demeter, depending on who you believe. [6566]

Inside the Church of Panagia Kapnikarea between Syntagma and Monastiraki. [6614]

A bonus find only about 100m from The Dolli. [0724]

Dawn's early light shines bright on the Church of Agia Marina, and behind it the National Observatory. [6558]

Some buildings in downtown Athens are awaiting renovation. [6599]

Is Summer in Athens always this crowded? Well probably, maybe worse right now as tourists stay away from the upcoming Olympic Games in France. Or maybe they are on their way to Paris? Whatever, we have been staggered by the crowds in the touristy areas of Plaka and Monastiraki. The narrow streets are crowded with taxis and motorbikes. Narrow or missing footpaths mean that pedestrians share the roadway with these vehicles, but everyone seems to get out of everyone else's way. Many streets are all but pedestrian malls with slippery marble underfoot. Vans delivering goods and produce clutter these ways early in the morning. Despite the people, it is a delight to wander the streets, lanes and alleys of Monastiraki and Plaka, andv there are never-ending photo opportunities.

Ermou, a pedestrian mall dedicated to shopping. [6635]

The pedestrian shopping mall of Adrianou. [6847]

We found this bakery, Attika, to make delicious baguettes and we often bought a take-away lunch here. [6571]

Fans spray open-air cafes with a water mist to keep the patrons cool. [2740]

No trouble getting good coffee in Athens. We tried the 'Greek Coffee' too, which tasted like a strong Americano. [5054]

Rustic bordering on dilapidated, in Apollonos street. [6734]

The Syntagma area is a short walk up Mitropoleos from The Dolli, and is rightfully regarded as the centre of the city. The famed Monument to the Unknown Soldier is there, in front of the imposing Greek parliament building. Around Syntagma Square are grand hotels like the NJV Plaza and the Grande Bretagne. There is also the Public department store, a fine underground Metro station, and an entrance to the National Garden.

The entrance vestibule at Syntagma metro station was a cut above any of the others we saw. [5819]

Crowds watching the guards at the Monument to the Unknown Soldier before the Greek parliament. [0316]

Changing of the guard at the Monument to the Unknown Soldier. [6594]

Guards at the Monument to the Unknown Soldier, having been relieved, march away. [0510]

Palm trees in the National Garden. [6741]

'Little Fisherman' removes hook from a catch, statue and turtle pond in Zappeion. [6746]

Weather statistics show that Athens gets rain one or two days a month in Summer. From what we have seen, the city looks like it never rains. It is hot, dry and dusty (and we were there before the August 2024 bushfires). The temperature falls to 28C at night, and seems to be 30-35C throughout daylight hours. Afternoons are stupifyingly hot, the crowds at the Acropolis dissipate, and people gravitate to the myriads of cafes for cooling beverages, preferring the shade of mostly mulberry trees, or dark shady lanes. The sun is well to the south in this season, so it is easy to find welcome shady places.

Busking band making beautiful noise in Ermou street, Athens. [8267]

Perfect sized vehicle for parking and navigating the streets of Plaka. [5930]