Athens - Morning Laps of the Acropolis and Agora...

Early morning filming of a travel guide for the Acropolis from Aeropagus Hill. [1169]

In Athens, Mike's morning walks became almost always variations on a lap of the Acropolis and Ancient Agora (about 2.5km), with varying detours (extending the walk up to 5km). His favourite was hiking the narrow alleys and steep steps of Anafiotika, an old and photogenic district uphill from Plaka in the immediate foothills of the Acropolis. That early, the shops in the touristy strips of Adrianou, Sellei and Vyronos streets are 90% closed (only a few cafes open) and the only pedestrians are striding out to one of the two Acropolis entries. Side trips on the laps on different days were to Hadrian's Arch, the National Garden, or Areopagus Hill. For parkland, the hill at Filopappou with the Prison of Socrates was a pleasant change, populated only by joggers. And of course, the other historical sites of Hadrian's Library and the Ancient Agora. Most of these locations justified return trips later in the day for more relaxed viewing, but the photos in this post reflect the relative quiet (but still warm) streets of Athens befor 08:00am.

Plaka, the "Neighbourhood of the Gods" is the 'old town' of Athens, where the north and eastern foothills of the Acropolis become flatter. It consists of "labyrinthine streets and neoclassical architecture" and is built "on top of residential area of ancient Athens" Wikipedia. Plaka has enjoyed human habitation since neotlithic times (except, for example, when it was evacuated in 1826 to escape pitched battles of the Greek War of Independence). During the day, Plaka is replete with visitors, but early in the morning it is all but deserted except for delivery vans.

At 7am, Anathistika cafe in Lisiou is not yet ready for visitors. [6755]

At 7am, this pretty cafe awaits its first customer. [6756]

Anafiotika must be Athens' most enchanted neighbourhood. It's the upper part of the historical Plaka on the northeast slope of the Acropolis and is directly between The Dolli and the Acropolis. This neighbourhood (which has signs posted begging for quite enjoyment and respect from visitors) was first developed in the 1840's (we read that in Wikipedia which implies, rightly or wrongly, that the ancients didn't build here) by migrant workers who hoped to find work on archaeological sites. It is a community of close-packed tiny houses connected by narrow paths and steep steps. There are occasional spots where visitors can see the city. Abandoned buildings are dilapidated and covered in graffiti, but most are well kept, freshly painted and bougainvillea proliferate.

View from the narrow alleys of Anafiotika, across the roof of Ieros Naos Agiou Symeon Anaphaion. [6761]

Not too glamorous, but very quaint, some of the pedestrian trails in Anafiotika. [6765]

Houses wrap themselves around rocky outcrops in the hills of Anafiotika. [6768]

More pedestrian steps in Anafiotika. [6772]

Shutters on a pretty Anafiotika house. [6775]

Abandoned dwelling on the slopes of Anafiotika. [6778]

Pretty and rustic, a house in the hilly Anafiotika district under the Acropolis. [6793]

Graffiti takes over when buildings are abandoned, in Anafiotika. [6781]

This may be the sacred cave containing ruins of the Temple of Asclepius and a holy water spring (500BC onwards), but it is now fenced off and not signposted. [6794]

The Monument of Lysicrates was erected by a wealthy patron of musical performances in the Theater of Dionysus. He celebrated a choral concert prize won in 335 BC, in which he was liturgist. The monument is known as the first use of the Corinthian order on the exterior of a building. It has been reproduced widely in modern monuments and building elements. The shady cafe, right, was one we patronised on a hot day.[6846]

Going clockwise around the Acropolis, there is a detour to the marble Gate of Hadrian on the edge of Plaka which spanned an ancient road running from Athens and the Acropolis to the east. The gate, or arch, was to honour the Roman emperor Hadrian who must have been respected by the Athenians. Inscriptions are interpreted to say that "this is Athens, once the city of Theseus; this is the city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus" Wikipedia which sounds like Hadrian was re-founding in Rome's name the much more ancient Greek city. As usual, there is doubt about much of this history.

Morning traffic in Leof. Vasilisis Amalias wraps around Hadrian's Gate, built to honour the Roman emperor around 130AD. [6852]

A wide pedestrian boulevard called Dionysiou Areopagitou tracked around the south side of the Acropolis going past a Metro station and the new Acropolis Museum and some fine Hellenic style buildings and mansions. This must be a wealthy part of town. It also passed the entry to the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a Roman theatre built in 160AD with a capacity of 5,000 patrons. The theatre featured a timber roof, but was destroyed in 267AD by Germanic Heruli. After restoration in the 1950's (but roofless), it is now used for major events such as the annual Athens Festival. Performers at the Odeum have included Maria Callas, Frank Sinatra, Luciano Pavarotti, Sting and more.

We concluded that 8:00am was the best time to queue at the Acropolis, despite advice to 'arrive early'. [8132]

One wonders what this modern house, directly facing the Acropolis, replaced? [1159]

A Roman cistern near the entrance to the Odeum of Herodes Atticus. [1160]

Marble steps lead up to the Odeum of Herodes Atticus. [1161]

Water fountain near the Odeum of Herodes Atticus. [6691]

A detour off that path leads up marble steps to the northern Acropolis entrance, quite a sight at 08:00am. This way leads to a shortcut back to Plaka. Here is Areopagus Hill (115m high) which seems to be a bare rocky outcrop but its mythical relationship to the Eumenides, goddesses of revenge and punishment, had it hosting courts hearing cases of murder, sacriledge and arson. It was a cemetery in ancient times. In 51AD, Christianity was preached here by the Apostle Paul, and by 400AD, in the Late Roman period, luxury homes were built on the hill. Not much of that is obvious now, but it's a great (free) place to view the sunset.

Long queues form at the north-west Acropolis gate at about 08:00 every morning. [1166]

The Church of Metamorphosis Sotiros almost at the base of the Acropolis cliff dates back to 11thC AD. [1605]

Early morning view of the Odeum of Herodes Atticus and the Parthenon. [8134]

Near here on the walking lap, south-west of the Acropolis is where buses and taxis let visitors off who didn't want to walk up the hill from the city. A detour from here takes you to a large hilly forested parkland, Filopappou Hill, which includes the Prison of Socrates, the city's old Observatory, the Hill of the Pnyx, and the Hill of the Nymphs. It's nice walking in here, very few people, but sometimes quite rough underfoot (watch for twisted ankles!), and easy to get slightly lost. We could not tell one hill from another, they blurred into each other. The early morning sun was a useful landmark for it pointed back to the Acropolis.

Cut into bedrock on Filopappu Hill is the Prison of Socrates. It's said he was held here in 400BC before his trial for disloyalty to established gods. Others say it was just a bathhouse. In WW2, treasures were hidden here to avoid Nazi looting. [8138]

Walking paths on Filopappou Hill required care. [8139]

This section of path on Filopappou Hill featured pretty mosaic motifs. We think these paths were the work of landscape designer Dimitris Pikionis (~1955). [8145]

In sight of the Acropolis' front steps, the Hill of the Pnyx, quite bare now, but in 500C this is where democracy was born. Great orators Aristides, Demosthenes, Pericles and Themistocles addressed crowds here. [8159]

The now abandoned 1842 Athens Observatory on the Hill of the Nymphs. [8162]

Then, the broad marble-paved walking path, now called Apostolou Paviou, passes downhill round the western side of the Acropolis and Areopagus Hill, where a pretty 1931 Church of Agia Marina Thission stands to the left, with lots open air cafes here, but all are quiet in the morning. To the right is the Ancient Agora, but there's no entry here.

The Church of Agia Marina, a four-sided basilica, was built in 1927 in Byzantine style. The building encompasses an 11th Century temple built into the rockface. [6705]

Finally, on this loop, we pass souvenir sellers setting up camp, and wind up back in the city following Adrianou street to the north of the Agora. The narrow street, barely one lane wide, is bordered with cafes and choked with early morning delivery vans. On the right is the Metro Line 3. Adrianou and the railway divide the Ancient Agora. An entrance to the Agora is here, as are the current excavations underway. Walk past Monastiraki metro station and up Mitroploeos street back to The Dolli!

Dawn lights up the foothills of Areopagus Hill. [6697]

Athens Metro train passes a reconstructed Stoa in the Ancient Agora. [6723]

Second-hand bookshop near Thissio metro station, opening for the day. [9121]

Greek souvenir shop open early in Apollonos street. [6608]

Before the crowds arrive. 8am in a shopping mall in Monastiraki. [6877]

Modern buildings in front of the Acropolis as seen from Monastiraki Square. [6726]

The entrance to Monastiraki metro station. [9351]

The photos in this post represent almost a dozen early morning walking 'laps' outside the Acropolis and Agora area. The Photo Map below shows where they all were taken.