Santorini - Cruise Ship Hell?

The iconic Greek Orthodix church in Oia's main square, Panagia Platsani. [7412]

From the Sea Cloud, looking across Santorini caldera with a mass of development on the tableland, the capital city of Fera. The zig zag track foot and donkey from Old Port is visible right of centre. [7550]

We were warned that Santorini would be busy, but nothing could prepare us for the unbelievable crowding in the hilltop town of Oia. We coulod count four large cruise ships in the harbour, and those many thousands of passengers all appeared to cram into Oia at once. Apart from the shops, most seemed to be looking for the perfect selfie with the blue domed Greek Orthodox churches which are famous as the iconic image of Santorini.

Crowded alleyways in Oia's main pedestrian street. [7437]

These buses at the Oia parking lot help explain the numbers of people croiwding the tiny town. [7405]

Greek gods feature on the sides of Santorini's tourist buses. [7445]

Firstly, what is Santorini? It was given that name by the Latin Empire in the 1400'sAD, and is a reference to Saint Irene. Its official name is Thira, its classical name is Thera. There have been other names. "It was the site of one of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded history: the Minoan eruption (sometimes called the Thera eruption), which occurred about 3,600 years ago at the height of the Minoan civilization" Wikipedia. Santorini is the largest island, croissant shaped, of an archipeligo which was the Santorini volcano caldera. The Minoan eruption is just the latest one. Volcanology started here millions of years ago.

The Sea Cloud was early into its parking spot in the caldera, but we had to complete breakfast before disembarking. Nothing can interfere with feeding time for these hungry passengers. We think the disembarkation time was prearranged anyway, as we had to use a local private tender service, and fit in with the traffic jam on the zig-zag climb up the cliff from the port of Athinios. It's then about 16km to Oia along narrow, twisty, hilly and too-busy roads.

Sue got us up early today for a shoot as the sun rose over Santorini, this pic at 06:24. [7317]

Lighthouse at the southern entrance to the huge Santorini caldera. [7351]

Construction project, tourist accommodation using the classic domed roof architecture. [7354]

An inter-island ferry arrives at Athinios port on Santorini. [7489]

Expedition leader Paula looks worried in the tender to port, but she has everything under control. [7373]

The Santorini port authority insisted that the Sea Cloud used private tenders for the transfer to shore. This tender held our entire complement, but it was pretty cosy inside.[7377]

A tiny port for such a busy island. Numerous ferries use Athinios, but the cruise ships unload elsewhere. [7381]

It's an epic hill climb for these cyclists to get from the port up to the Santorini tableland. [7391]

We don't know how this system at Athinos copes with masses from cruise ships. But then someone told us that cruise ships tender into Old Port where there is a funicular whose capacity must match tender arrivals. From Old Port, the only alternative is a 600 step zig-zag path suitable for pedestrians or donkeys.

Crowds of visitors in Panagia Platsani Square. [7416]

Artists selling their interpretations of the famous Oia cityscape. [7423]

Blue on blue - one of Santorini's iconic church domes. [7424]

One of Oia's myriad of souvenir shops. [7427]

Oia is Santorini, and Santorini is Oia. All the iconic images of Santorini are taken of deleriously beautiful whitewashed and blue domed buildings (churches) in the northern town of Oia. Santorini is also famed for its sunsets, and images of those too are mostly taken from vantage points in Oia. But there is more to Santorini, and the Lindblad-National Geographic team were determined that we would appreciate some of the island's delights outside Oia. We were grateful to get out of Oia.

Porters carry tourists' luggage through crowded alleys, up an down many steps, to their accommodation. [7438]

Retired windmills reborn as tourist accommodation. [7449]

Santo Winery is high up and with a spectacular view of the caldera. No lunch here though, we were here for a wine tasting. This was a very slick operation with a lot of restaurant and tasting tables, an excellent sales pitch from a talented presenter, and a popular gift shop, selling much more than just wine.

View of the Santorine caldera as seen from Santo Winery. That's Oia, top right. [7465]

The tasting rations at Santo Winery. [7462]

In impeccable English, this lady big a great selling job for Santo wines, and offered free shipping for orders over EUR200 to the US and UK. [7467]

The Santo Winery giftshop. [7481]

For lunch, we bussed down to the more exposed east side of the croissant where, behind the airport, we found Marios Restaurant near Monolithos and right on the beach. We had a lunch of various Greek delicacies, and more wine. Expedition leader Paula had cautioned us about rough seas here, but they were not, and several of us had a swim. The beach was definitely not Bondi though, no sand, all pebbles of various sizes, and slippery too. The water was fine, a very comfortable temperature, blissfully cooling on such a hot day.

Part of Monolithos beach opposite Marios Restaurant. You don't come to Santorini for the beaches. The restaurant had a beach shower for washing off afterwards. [7504]

These frozen fish were not on our menu at Marios Restaurant. [1912]

Then we went to Akrotiri at the south western end of the Santorini croissant. This was something we were not expecting! Suggestions of ancient habitation at Akrotiri were first noticed in the late 1800'sAD, but it was not for a century that they were properly excavated, first inspired by a pet theory that the end of bronde-age Minoan civilisation (based in nearby Crete, from about 3100BC) was brought about by the Santorini volcano. "The excavations at Akrotiri have uncovered one of the most important prehistoric settlements of the Aegean. ... [It] developed into one of the main urban centers and ports of the Aegean. The large extent of the settlement (20ha), the elaborate drainage system, the sophisticated multi-storeyed buildings with the magnificent wall-paintings, furniture and vessels, show its great development and prosperity." [https://www.santorini.com/archaeology/akrotiri.htm]

A magnificent shelter now encloses the Minoan excavations at Akrotiri. [7515]

Wee, it was very hot when we visited the Minoan excavations at Akrotiri. [7514]

The excavations at Akrotiri are extensive, and are now protected inside a huge shed. [7521]

Walls, windows and doors of the Minoan village at Akrotiri. [7532]

Excavated pots left in position reveal a store-room at Akrotiri. They typically kept olive oil and wine. [7535]

Government money and private sponsorship is now responsible for a huge building to protect the site and allow it to be opened to the public. The construction of this "shed" had a troubled history, it seems, but what we were able to visit now was almost overwhelming in scale and grandeur. When we said to David Brotherson, our Sea Cloud historian (more on him later), "this is up your street", he said "mate, this IS my street"! The shed is roofed, but that was no protection from the relentless Santorini heat. It was stifling in there, but being far from Oia, not crowded, at least!

Santorini caldera, with Sea Cloud. and cruise ship. [7492]

Finally, as the Photo Map below shows, this was a whirlwind day tour of Santorini in the hands of the Sea Cloud Expedition team. We did not even stay for Santorini's legendary sunset. Later, on our own bat, we will return here and spend a week, probably with an emphasis on relaxation, not whirlwinds!

Preparing dessert of the Sea Cloud's Lido deck. [7570]

Expedition team member Jess, onboard. [7572]

Santorini day after sunset, about 9pm, on the Lido deck. [7577]