Akan-ko, homeland of the Ainu...

Having checked out of the Yorouchi with some sadness, our scheduled morning activity was a canoe ride through marshlands which, we saw, in spring would be the nesting areas for the wonderful red crowned cranes which we hoped to see later in the day. The boss canoe man was a guy who has spent years in New Zealand being a mountain guide for Japanese tourists. His office was full of kiwi artifacts and a NZ internet radio station was playing. He and his offsider both had very good English.

The red-crowned crane is an icon of Hokkaido and Japan, and its image appears everywhere.

The canoe went into a quiet creek which is an overflow from Lake Toro somewhere between Shibecha and Kushiro. We paddled to where the creek meets the Kushiro River which flows to the Pacific Ocean. We saw two other canoes, but not much in the way of wildlife, a few deer, ducks and eagles at a distance. Sadly, we just missed seeing a steam-train which runs every day in February.

Fellow canoers on this quiet marshland.

Almost perfectly camoflaged deer by the river.

Out of season, the trees are not so pretty.

The overall river scene is quite photogenic.

We saw this Stellars Sea Eagle from the road. The canoe operator told us he sits here every day/

Late in the day Steve went into the area known as Tsurui on a crane hunt. Tsuru means "cranes" and the "i" at the end apparently makes it "live here". He tried a couple of places, talked to a few photographers, but at first we only saw cranes at a distance. But then we passed another place where a farmer or shopkeeper puts out food, and found a good number of the treasured cranes pecking in the snow and flying off to their night roosting places.

Pickings are poor for red-crowned cranes in winter, but the community makes sure they have enough to eat.

It's important to say that community nurturing of these cranes is an important part of their rescue from near extinction, especially in winter. Overdevelopment caused their near demise (only 30 left!) but the Tsurui community embarked on a program to save them and there are now a total of 1000 in Japan, all in Hokkaido. The cranes are migratory, but the meagre Japanese population has been conditioned to moving only 150km between summer and winter because of their loss of habitat.

Photographers watch every move of the cranes as they forage in the snow.

The red-crowned cranes are among the biggest cranes and get their name from a patch of bare red skin at their forehead, which gets brighter during mating. Other than that, they are snow white in colour, with some black feathers in their wings.

The cranes build up a gallop to take off.

In flight, there is nothing more graceful than these large cranes.

These are precious birds indeed, and are absolute icons in Japan. Japan Air Line's logo features a red-crowned crane, as does one series of Japanese bank notes, and their mating ritual is one of Japan's 100 soundscapes. How wonderous to be able to find them so easily. (In fact, earlier in the day, we spotted a few more, although too distant to photograph.)

Those black feathers are on the wing, not the tail, as you might think when they're on the ground.

Getting dark, these red-crowned cranes and heading to their roosts.

We stayed the last two nights of our Hokkaido journey in Lake Akanat the New Akan Hotel, maybe called the Shangri-la in some previous existance. This is a big nine storey place which has been visibly extended three times around the lake front, no doubt as the owners managed to acquire more property. Our room was billed as "western" and had a bed, but it was shoes-off on entry, devoid of a chair although it did have a huge day lounge beside the large bay window which offered us a great view of the lake.

Lake Akan Hotel from the frozen lake, huge restaurant at bottom, onsens up top.

Icy predawn light over the frozen Lake Akan showing skating circuit plus rental of ice fishing tents and snow mobiles.

Sign within the hotel warns of rather low temperatures today.

Tough work learning to skate when it's -20C and blowing snow.

No kaiseki here, we had buffet dinners and breakfasts which were excellent in range and quality, but the whole scene was one of pandemonium. Everyone in the hotel crowded into a very large restaurant space over a relatively short period of time. It's madness, and the poor staff were worked off their feet. Western items were available from the buffet (cereal, fried egg, bread for toast etc) but no cutlery. We found a butter knife and a fruit fork. During the day, the hotel is so quiet, we figure everyone is off doing tours.

In this giant dining room, we studied the crowd (and listened to their language) and realised that there are not so many Japanese staying in this particular hotel (but there are plenty of others). At least on the days we were here, the guests were mostly Chinese and Korean with a sprinkling from South East Asia. And not a single westerner, except for ourselves. Lake Akan is still popular with Japanese people - they seemed to arrive by car, and are maybe just on day trips from, say, Kushiro. The best parking area in town is the frozen lake - that probably doesn't work so well in summer!

One of hundreds of ice fishing shelters that you can rent on Lake Akan.

You can hire snow mobiles or dune buggies, but a ride on a banana sled was the most popular in the foul conditions.

Again, huge areas over two storeys of the hotel were devoted to "bathrooms". The locker rooms were unusually palatial. There were segregated large indoor and outdoor pools. On the building roof there was an arrangement we hadn't come across before, a large non-segregated pool and smaller segregated baths and also jacuzzis. Unexpectedly, you had to cover up to visit the top floor areas, and they lend you "bathing shorts or bathing gowns" which, frankly, look ridiculous but preserve modesty. We think this area is the preserve of tourists and not the Japanese. But this didn't detract from the sheer pleasure of a steaming hot bath while heavy snow falls on your head!

Lake Akan, Akan-ko, is a volcanic lake formed about 6000 years ago. Part of the touristy village we stayed in is Akan Kotan which appears to be a spiritual homeland for those Ainu people who are aware of their origins. Most Ainu are fully assimilated and interbred, it seems, and unknowing of their roots, so the "Ainu" population is uncertain (25,000-250,000), but there are enough here to run a village of souvenir shops and an evening cultural presentation which we attended in a very well equipped theatre. The troupe we saw consisted of seven young Ainu women, a couple of older women, and an elderly gentleman - they danced, sang and played a traditional instrument, a tiny stringed thing with amazing tonal variation. To us the performers looked like any other Japanese, which is no surprise since both races originally descended from Mongolian clans warring since the late 1300's. There are apparently some evolutionary differences between the Ainu and the dominant Yamato people of Japan (120m of 129m), but we couldn't see them in their faces.

Snowy entrance to the Ainu People's village.

Even the polar bears are cold in Lake Akan!

New Tourist Centre at Lake Akan is styled with Ainu motifs.

To the Ainu, the great Cikap Kamuy owl was the god of the land and all other owls.

Volcanic Activity at Lake Kussharo...

After leaving Rausu we drove a "scenic route" to Yoroushi with many stops on the way. One of the highlights was a diversion to Kaiyodai Observatory near Nakashibetsu, a very impressive structure high on a hill complete with rooftop ampitheatre for guided stargazing, in summer we think. For our visit, the cafe here was firmly closed.

We approach Kaiodai Observatory.

Stellar observation theatre with Mt. Unabetsu directly to the north.

Icy hill track to the observatory made safe with our Sapporo-bought non-slip grips.

Then, in Akan National Park, we stopped to peer down into the volcanic crater that holds Lake Mashu. The crater walls are 200m high, the lake large and very blue, partially frozen at its shadier end. Measurements of clarity reveal that Lake Mashu is maybe the clearest in the world. Other measurements rate the volcano as "potentially active", but all was quiet for our visit. Lake Mashu is a newcomer in geologic terms, under 32,000 years old. Eruptions occurred 7,000 years ago, and 2,000 years ago. The Ainu people knew the potential here and called Mashu the "Lake of the Devil".

Panorama of Lake Mashu's stunning caldera.

Sika deer safe inside Lake Masha's huge crater.

On the shores of nearby Lake Kussharo we visited Sunayu where we where entertained by the antics of Whooper Swans on the verge of being fed by a business owner no doubt hoping to attract paying customers. More interestingly, we discovered that the 56km circumference Lake Kussharo is also a volcanic caldera which, prior to some eruption, was much larger and included what is now Lake Masha. We saw more swans further around the lake's edge at what seems to be called a "Wild Onsen", where there is a public onsen right on the beach, with an absurd little fence to segregate the sexes. Public nudity here would be rather discouraged by the swarms of photographers lurking in the onsen steam, hoping for great shots of the swans. It's possible to create your own private onsen here - just digging in the sand produces hot water. We imagine the swans are attracted by the warm water.

The Whooper Swans have their eyes on the man with the bucket.

Feeding time at Sunayu.

Another handful of swan food.

Swan photographers in wait by the "Wild Onsen".

You can imagine how the Lake Kussharo crater once encompassed Lake Machu, in this GPS map.

If we had any doubts about how the earth works beneath the surface, having been in the caldera of a "potentially active" volcano, and seen hot water and steam around the edge of a lake, we dispelled them by visiting the active volcano Iou-zan (literally "sulphur mountain"). Here numerous steam jets eject from the side of the hill, leaving the characteristic yellow colour and pungent odour of sulphur. It's a spectacular sight, a wonder to behold and amazing to contemplate what's going on beneath your feet! Inside a nearby souvenir shop, you can buy eggs boiled in the hot springs of Iou-zan.

From a distance, Iou-zan billows steam into the air.

The warning sign tells it all.

Boiling water and steam fizzing out of this hole.

Nice warm spot on a cold day.

As soon as we arrived, we knew the Yoroushi Yuyado Dai-Ichi Ryokan would be a highlight of the trip, a destination in itself, and we should have spent two nights here. It's such a shame we arrived at sunset. The lobby area was large and welcoming, with a firepit and large windows to a beautiful snowy creek replete with birdlife. Management leave food for the birds, and the clientele, mostly photographers judging from the cameras and lenses, lap it up.

Woodpecker emblem of the Yoroushi Yuyado Dai-Ichi Ryokan.

Cosy lobby and common area of the Yorouchi Ryokan.

Predawn outlook from our room.

The very pretty Euasian Jay with his eye on some tucker.

Looks like this Jay is being fed the rock-fish leftovers from last night.

Great Spotted Woodpecker just like at the Yorouchi Ryokan entrance.

Our room in this ryokan was unusual but traditional. The sleeping tatami was in a loft upstairs which we had to crawl into, because the ceiling height was only 1500mm. And we had no private bath or shower - guests here have to use the onsen! The onsen abutted the creek, and was a complex of rockpools and tubs of varying temperatures, indoors and outdoors. There was a large pool for both sexes, defying that old Edo edict requiring segregation to avoid moral depravity.

Red fox by the creek in Yorouchi.

Danger is this lady's business as Mike swings the mallett to make rice-cake.

Departing guests have their boots neatly laid out for them.

Japanese onsen tradition has particular towelling requirements. The only towel you take to the hot bath is what we could call a "hand towel", and while in the preparatory shower you can wash down with it, when you take it to the bath, it must never enter the water. Most bathers place theirs on their head, or on a nearby rock. Regardless, they still get soaking wet from all the steam, and we proved at this onsen that the laws of physics still apply - spinning it around wet in way sub-zero conditions soon freezes it. You are still expected to dry yourself with this soggy towel, and the conditions in the locker room are usually so dry, the heated humidity so low, that this works OK.

Having explained to our guide, Steve, that we were unable to find out what we were eating in the kaiseki meals, and that this was reducing the experience, he (who doesn't eat with us) went to great trouble to translate the menu for us, and helped us to select the main course. This was a great assistance, and we thank him for his responsiveness, and also, here, the staff tried hard to tell us what the various food items were, mostly fish, shrimp and shellfish as is befitting for a seaside village.

Rausu - land of long lenses...

The Oshin-Koshin Falls, fairly close to Utoro, is one the 100 most beautiful waterfalls in Japan.

This sika deer farm was originally established to protect the species, but now provides vension for human consumption.

Wary red fox somewhat spooked by our interest.

We had to take the long way from Otoro to the other side of the Shiretoko Peninsula because the most direct road is routinely closed in winter. In crossing this peninsula we passed through numerous standalone tunnels which were out in the fields and not obviously for avalanche or rockfall. Steve explained that they were in high wind areas. Before going to our utimate destination, we spent an hour or two on the Notsuke Peninsula, a tiny and narrow curved sand spit with a reputation for good wildlife spotting.

Recent wildlife spottings map inside the Notsuke Peninsula Nature Centre.

Spottings were sparse. We did see a herd of male sikadeer, red foxes, and one or two Stellers Sea Eagles at a distance, looking for fish. The peninsula does have a very nice Nature Centre to visit, and we spent some time in an excellent bird hide, but saw nothing from there. Interestingly, the sika deer were once widespread over East Asia, but it's only in Japan now where it is "overabundant".

Offshore from the Notsuke Peninsula, and disconcertingly close, is Kunashir Island, one of four disputed Kuril Islands claimed and occupied by Russia but disputed by Japan. When you look at a map of Hokkaido, it's rather difficult to rationalise the Russian claim.

Lighthouse on the Notsuke Peninsula with the disputed Russian island nearby offshore.

Then north to the little fishing village of Rausu (pop 5,300), the name taken from an Ainu word, maybe meaning "place of mean with beast-like spirit". The proximity of Kunashir Island is evident here too, and also in the language you hear spoken around town. In Rausu we encounted more "westerners" than we have seen anywhere else in Hokkaido - Russians, Europeans, a few Brits, Americans, Aussies.

No wonder the town is named after Mt. Rausu.

Stellars Sea Eagle soaring before the hills of Rausu.

The port town of Rausu.

We had two main objectives in Rausau, to spot the rare Blakistons Fish Owl and to go eagle spotting from a boat. Both these activities were successful, but in what proved to be highly contrived situations.

The Blakistons Fish Owl
is the largest species of owl and is only found in Hokkaido and is named after the dude who first found him in Hakodate in 1883. Thomas Blakiston also observed that species in parts of Hokkaido differed to those in others, the boundary now being called the "Blakiston Line." The owl lives in "riparian forest, with large, old trees for nest-sites, near lakes, rivers, springs and shoals that don't freeze in winter" (Wikipedia).

Anyway, to catch a glimpse of this owl, we visit a budget hotel which runs along such a river, quite near the coast, where the owner has built a long thin hide which he rents out to people with long lenses. No smartphones here. Our itinerary referred to the wait as Owashi no Yado - we think that's the name of the hotel. There is a "special" light which somehow don't distract the owl, then seeds a pool in the river with fish, and then we wait. Shutter speeds have to be set at 1/80sec or slower so apparently the special lights are a strobe. We were lucky, the elusive owls appeared twice after dusk and before our scheduled dinner time - they hadn't appeared for days previously, and Steve (afterwards) admitted that he's never seen the owl in this place before. On two visits, an owl appeared like a ghost, grabbed a hapless fish, and flew away within seconds, all to the clatter of a dozen or so motor drive shutters working overtime. We heard that the next appearance was at 2am. Blakistons Fish Owl is big and beautiful, and the ones we saw had fluffed up feathers which made them look quite rotund. Many of our fellow photographers spoke Russian, and one, not too bright, tried to use flash to take his pics, but was quickly dealt with by the owner who was very generous to us, providing seats, a heater and a pair of good binoculars.

The moment the Blakistons Fish Owl grabs his fish...

Takes off with it...

Puts it in his mouth ...

And flies away!

We had a reservation for a cruise from Rausu Harbour to spot white tailed eagles or Stellers Sea Eagles, but Steve was concerned that it would be too windy/rough for it to go far. That turned out to be irrelevant - it barely goes 100m then the crew attracts eagles by throwing frozen fish into the water. Both species of eagles respond in force, and it is fascinating to watch them swoop, pick up the fish with their claws, then take off. The eagles complete with gulls who seem to be faster but often not quite strong enough to carry the fish, and drop them. The gulls grab the fish in their beak, and if they can hang onto it, seem to be able to down it in one big gulp.

We were one of three boats attracting eagles for hungry photographers.

We thought the cruise operators ran a fishing business on the side, but this how they attract the eagles.

White tailed eagle flies off with his catch.

Stellars Sea Eagle in flight.

Zeroing in for his catch, a Stellars Sea Eagle skims the water.

Another eagle spotting cruise inside the seawall.

White tailed eagle guards his fish on the seawall.

Our digs in Rausu, the ryokan Daiichi Hotel (we only know its name from our itinerary, it's not written in English anywhere) was about a kilometer from town up the summer road to Utoro, closed in winter. We enjoyed yet another kaiseki meal here, delicious, varied, but with no-one able to tell us what any item was. Many of the guests were westerners - this town is obviously the destination in Hokkaido for serious photographers! Our room was Japanese style of course and had a very small bathroom which, we now start to think, is meant to encourage guests to bathe communally in the onsen. Which was a good idea here, because the outdoor bath here must be one of the best around, a large rocky pool which could almost be natural, right at the bottom of the hill at the back of the hotel, filled with milky coloured, sulphur scented water. The men's outdoor bath was not private and could be seen from 8-10 hotel rooms and anyone walking the hill. Like almost everywhere we've stayed on this trip, the Daiichi had excellent free wifi.

The Daiichi Hotel had the best onsen of the trip.