Hiking into Grytviken...

Grytviken (which means "small pot", a reference to tools used by sealers), a tiny township in Cumberland Bay on South Georgia, was to be the Orion's next destination. However, the hardiest on board (more than half of us, actually) were given the chance to get some desperately needed exercise with a 4km hike from Maiviken across a peninsula in the bay to the town. This would give us the mildest experience of Shackleton's trek across South Georgia 100 years ago. We had GPS to guide us (but we still took one wrong turn) and an evident track for much of the journey.

Shaun described the route as "undulating" but pointed out that he has previously been criticised for using such a mild adjective for what is a strenous and hilly walk. We found that the criticism was unwarranted, and it must have come from a passenger unused to exercise. The first 200m or so uphill from the drop-off point were steep, but otherwise, it was just "hilly".

We set off from the beach up a very boggy flowing creek.

This little fur seal seemed to be objecting to our presence.

The initial climb up from the beach was partly steep and very boggy.

Our path took us past glacial lakes and an emergency shelter hut.

Much of the downhill trek into Grytviken was on this surface - slippery and unstable.

Glacial lakes and Cumberland Bay behind us on our 4km hike across a peninsula.

At both ends of the hike we saw seals and penguins, but for the rest of the time, there was no wildlife apparent at all. But the path was scenic and beautiful. The wind was gusty, sometimes strong enough to blow you over. Sleet fell throughout. We passed glacial lakes between tall peaks, and had great views to Cumberland Bay. On the final descent, we passed a water supply dam and then Grytviken came into view.

This overflowing dam is the water supply for the tiny town of Grytviken.

First glimpse of Grytviken.

The church at Grytviken with its spectacular backdrop.

While the hikers were on their trek, the Orion sailed round to meet them at Grytviken when another "bridge drama" took place. The harbour here is small and shallow, and usually well protected, but winds up to 70kn were threatening to blow the ship into danger. For the "first time ever", Shaun, the expedition leader, temporarily closed the bridge to passengers while the captain took urgent action to safeguard the vessel. We also heard him say later that he never wants to come into this particular bay within Cumberland Harbour again, but we can't see how he can avoid it, given how important Grytviken is to these expeditions.

Passengers who skipped the hike arrived at the cemetary in heavy snow and a strong wind.

Grytviken is a truly amazing place, and we viewed it as heavier snow fell, in the form of tiny balls of polystyrene, sago maybe, but quite dry. The town was the base of one of the biggest whaling stations in the world, the scale of which can only now be appreciated by the extent of the ruins, and the old photographs on display in the stunning museum and post office. The ruins were cleaned up about a decade ago to make it safe for visitors (that process is ongoing), but even now, great caution is needed in walking around. Some old buildings have been restored.

Amazing that a place as remote as Grytviken, with virtually no population, can host such a splendid museum.

Replica of the James Caird in Grytviken Museum.

So far, at least, this is the closest we have been to the wandering albatross, the largest wingspan of all.

The Grytviken PO has a new exhibition of Frank Hurley's photos, including replica glass plates.

Heavy snow starts falling, but the wind has dropped, as we visit the South Georgia Heritage Society musuem.

The whaling industry was established here in 1904 by Norwegian C.A. Larsen, who was the commander of the vessel Antarctic of the 1902 Swedish Polar Expedition led by Otto Nordenskjold. Obviously, Larsen had had his eyes on the commercial opportunities. By the time whaling ceased in 1965, some 57,000 whales had been killed in the South Georgia seas and processed at Grytviken. The industry closed because whaling stocks had been so depleted, and alternative products were fortunately now available before they were hunted to extinction.

Grytviken harbour has numerous wrecked whalers.

Whalebones and maritime debris in front of the museum.

Snow falling on just another picturesque relic at Grytviken.

Three splendidly clean and aloof king penguins in amongst the rubble of Grytviken.

The rugged landscape of Cumberland Bay seen past this old whaler.

One huge pile of old anchor chain at the whaling station.

The horrifying flensing area of the Grytviken whale works.

Part of the immense whale processing works.

We participated in a solemn ceremony at the Grytviken cemetery. Here is the grave of Sir Ernest Shackleton who died of a heart attack in 1922 at the age of about 47. Every passenger holds a dram of Jamiesons Irish Whisky while Tom Ritchie proposes an emotional toast to "the boss". A splash from each glass is tipped on Shackleton's grave. Shackleton's epic journey is an important part of this expedition, redoubled because it happened exactly 100 years ago.

Tom Ritchie proposing a toast at the grave of Sir Ernest Shackleton, "the boss".

Getting to and from the cemetary requires running the gauntlet of hundreds of frisky fur seals who threaten if not actually attack every passer by. They pursue us, and bare their teeth, and some passengers got isolated by the seals and needed rescuing. You also have to pass revolting wallows of elephant seals who look up and belch at us disgustedly, but otherwise do nothing except for the odd grumble. And then there are the dignified king penguins, with their beautiful white chests, standing around as if they are posing proudly. But really they are simply ignoring us.

These guys know who's boss here. Getting to the cemetery, we had to run the gauntlet of many quite territorial fur seals.

Elephant seals in their wallow.

Like many others, this elephant seal was expressing displeasure at our arrival.

A friendlier fur seal.

An ever-stoic King Penguin.