Into Shackleton's refuge...

Is Cave Cove by Cape Rosa in King Haakon Bay the highlight of South Georgia? Arguably. Not only is it a most historic spot in Shackleton's epic journey, but here had a better view of the storm petrels and cape petrels than anywhere else. To get here, the Orion had come around to the exposed western coast of South Georgia.

Morning fog gives an ethereal look to the South Georgia coast near King Haakon Bay.

South Georgia's weather is famously fickle, and our previous blog posts will testify to that, but for our visit to King Haakon Bay, it was kind to us, because while being totally overcast and foggy, coolish at 2C, it was not raining! There was quite a swell rolling in the bay, and in fact our overnight journey here around the western tip of South Georgia had been very rough.

Dirty but awesome, a glacier in King Haakon Bay.

King Haakon Bay is a large fjord on the exposed north-western part of South Georgia. The shore is lined with dozens of large glaciers, all dirty and retreating unfortunately, and some with spectacular waterfalls, all looking gloomy in the fog. But the bay's main claim to fame is, of course, being the inlet that the James Caird first made landfall on the island in 1916. To quote the Orion's Daily Program, "Here, among the cliffs of Cape Rosa's headland, the starving men foud fresh water and fresh meat in the form of albatross chicks. A shallow cave bearing a curtain of long icicles provided a dry shelter from the island's inclement weather. The men recuperated in this small cave for four days while preparing for the next leg of their journey."

Rendition of the James Caird nearing South Georgia, probably drawn by George Marston.

The captain anchored the Orion just off Cape Rosa, so we could take a short zodiac ride into Cave Cove where a plaque commemorates Shackleton's arrival. There was a good swell getting in, and we copped a lot of spray, but we entered the tiny cove through narrow heads to pull up at a steep, really rocky, beach - pretty well protected, but disembarking, we managed to get one wet foot despite our Bogs. Strangely, uniquely, no welcoming committee of fur seals or penguins - no one at all.

That tiny entry on the left is Cave Cove, where Shackleton and his men found shelter.

The tiny entrance to Cave Cove.

The advance scout team in Cave Cove awaiting the first zodiac full of guests.

Ian Strachan was captain of our zodiac into Cave Cove.

Tom Ritchie explaining what Shackleton's men did while in Cave Cove, the tiny cave behind him.

This paltry cave is where Shackleton's crew sheltered for 4 days while getting ready for their cross-island hike.

James Napoli has recorded every moment of this expedition.

Shaun, keeping his eye on us, and two ABs at Cave Cove beach.

Our visit here was a moving experience, and as usual, Tom Ritchie was passionate as he told us the story. Amazingly, the James Caird had lost its rudder just before they arrived here, Tom said, but the tide washed it into the cove the next day!

Somewhere up that hill, they caught abatross chicks to eat, and found fresh water too.

Dan Westergren wondering if he can get around far enough to read the plaque.

The bird-life here was prolific, and we got to see it close up from the zodiac, and from the Orion. We could see hundreds of dainty-footed Wilson's Storm Petrels feeding by dancing on the water but never diving, and never sitting in the water. They pick up tasty morsels with their feet. They share the space with black and white Cape Petrels (pintado petrols) - in fact they often seem to be competing for the same morsels. More occasionally, shags and smaller albatrosses swing by.

A Wilson's Storm Petrel about to paddle his feet in the search for food.

Cape Petrel in flight.

The Cape Petrels also gallop along the surface looking for a feed.

From when we first arrived on South Georgia, we had been asked to cover our windows at night to minimise the chance bird-strike by seabirds confused by the lights. Today, one guest did find a mature (but tiny) diving petrel (blue feet) stunned on his balcony. Doug Gould swung into action and captured the poor fellow, put him in a dark box, and allowed him to dry off and warm up. An hour later, he was released from the lounge deck. As Doug predicted, the petrel would not take off straight away - after a few moments, he encouraged it to go, and it took off shakily. We don't know if he made it. Another stunned bird, a chick this time, was found and taken in Doug's care.

No, not the entrance to the blue grotto in Capri!