Refuge in the Good Hollow...

They did tell us the weather on South Georgia would be extreme and variable! The forecast was for 70kn winds, so we eased into Godthul, a tiny but deep bay surrounded by tall cliffs, selected by the Captain as the best refuge nearby. Its name means "good cove" or "good hollow" and was once used by whalers and sealers for protection in bad winds.

The winds picked up overnight, and next morning dawned with the forecast having come true. Salt spray blew wildly, and the water surface was alive with flurries and squalls. We hunkered down. The bridge (in this protected bay) reported steady 40-50kn wind with frequent stronger gusts of up to 78kn. Even the seabirds were hiding in the kelp!

Up to 70kn gusts swirl across the water in Godthul.

Luckily, this is a protected bay!

Such an inauspicious start turned into a perfect day - the wind dropped and the sun came out full force - and we enjoyed not one but two separate excursions by zodiac to different landing places in Godthul.

View from the bridge, Orion clinging to its anchor in Godthul, regular use of thrusters to control swing.

Robert in charge of our first zodiac tour in Godthul.

The beach we visited on our first Godthul outing.

No guarantees, but we think this is a storm petrel of some variety.

Before the wind fully dissipated, we saw lots of kelp gulls sitting in the copious kelp in the bay. Apparently, they find the kelp an effective shelter. And, luckily, we saw one South Georgia pintail, a duck species seen nowhere else. These guys are carnivores, eating algae and invertebrates, and they scavenge on dead seals.

Kelp gulls, just like seagulls, shelter from strong winds by hiding in kelp.

Northern giant petrel, another scavenger which goes for dead seals and other critters.

The South Georgia pintail is not seen anywhere else, and this is the only one we've seen.

We have to keep our distance, but the wildlife is free to come close.

The beaches on Godthul are populated by gentoo penguins, fur seals and elephant seals. We saw plenty of everything. The fur seals are possibly the most amazing, with hundreds of them splashing in the water near the edge, and harassing the orange coated penguins on the sand. There are picturesque ruins from old whaling operations, and a plethora of very old whale bones are spread around the beach.

Zodiac being lifted back onto the Orion.

Zodiacs with no punters aboard can go fast!

This elephant seal is probably not pleased to see us.

These Elephant Seals lounge noisily in tussock grass.

The sleepy Gentoo has an alert Elephant Seal as a guard.

The whole area is alive with playful fur seals.

A pigeon pair, and both in the bush!

This beach in Godthul is strewn with old whale bones.

Gentoo chick imploring his parent for a feed.

Baby fur seals learning their way in the water.

You have to get to ground level for the best perspective.

Dan Westergren setting up a time lapse under the watchful eye of a local.

Afternoon sun makes the kelp shine!

Ian Strachan was in charge of the visitors to this beach.

Remnants of whaling operations.

Some chicks are as big as their parents, but still demand attention.

This fellow is making a beeline for the water.