At first, looking at the real-time progress chart in our cabin we thought the Orion was going to depart the Falklands altogether, but its destination, intriguingly named and uninhabited Steeple Jason, was at the extreme north western corner of the island group. Steeple Jason is one of an archipelago known as the Jason Islands, and is, inter alia, owned by the Wildlife Conservation Society of New York City!
Shaun was very excited about this location. Apparently, wind and tide often makes it inaccessible, but, when we pulled up, his scouting mission established that a landing would be possible although difficult.
Why here? Well, this island is home to 150,000 mating pairs of Black Browed Albatrosses, and we hoped to visit a large rookery. The landing was our hardest ever. Shaun assigned his entire expedition team to assisting us punters onto shore safely, leaving the zodiac driving to the Orion's able bodied seamen (ABs). After a smooth but twisty approach, necessitated by dense kelp forests (best avoided by outboard propellors), we had to clamber from our zodiac over another one, onto rough, slippery and wobbly rocks. Mats and towels had been placed to stop us slipping over. Staff helped every passenger, almost every step of the way, onto safe ground. You cannot criticise the Lindblad approach to this sort of operation.
From the landing, it was a steady uphill climb (only about 1km) on a good surface to a ridge, then down the other side, to a massive rookery. There seemed to be far more chicks than adults on the ground, and overhead, hundreds of Black Browed Albatross swirled around in the updrafts and looking for the right place to land. The birds would swoop so low, right over our heads, that you could feel their breeze. We all fought for prime viewing positions in head-high tussock grass, just a meter from the edge of the rookery. The birds seemed totally unperturbed, the chicks gazing at us blankly.
The black browed albatross rookery with us, hiding in the tussock grass like voyeurs at a nude beach.
Steeple Jason was a photographic bonanza, with bonus viewings of scenery, sea lions, the "nearly threatened" striated caracara, gentoo penguins and a solitary rockhopper penguin. We were going to stay there all day - lunch was brought from the Orion in tiny blue Eskys - but then, a change a plan was announced! At about 2:30pm, we all scrambled back onto the Orion to make a run for New Island. Getting off the Steeple Jason into the zodiacs was much easier, because the tide had come in.
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