Hopping rocks on New Island...

New Island is 3.5 hours fast sailing south from Steeple Jason. Once held a whaling station (naturally, until 1916), it is now a 23sq.km nature reserve.

The Falkland Islands are not just a speck in the ocean. We steamed overnight to get from Stanley to Steeple Jason and another 3+ hours to New Island.

We pulled into Coffin Cove with the sun well and truly setting, to see a tiny settlement, maybe half a dozen buildings, a derelict sealing boat, an anchored yacht, and a lovely sandy beach. As we waited to disembark, we were thrilled by a pod of Peale Dolphins who put on an exhibition, then raced our zodiac to the beach. We had a wet but effortless landing.

A pod of Peale's Dolphins at Coffin Cove. Steve was playing with one of them, but this is as close as we got to a photo!

New Island, quite treeless, is privately held by a Conservation Trust (since 1996), and the Rockhopper Penguin colony is on land managed by a couple who have built a little museum and souvenir shop. Apart from permitting our visit (and no doubt getting paid for it), they came out in two 4WDs to help the infirm amongst us climb the hill.

Almost everywhere we have been on this trip has been a highlight, and New Island was no exception. We trecked about 1km up a 4WD track from the settlement to a fantastic rocky gorge which ran into the sea on the other side of the island. Tom Ritchie told us this was classic African geology, and reminded us that the Falklands are not separated from Tierra del Fuego but are a fragment of the African continent moved here by plate tectonics. Can't quite see how, but Tom won't be wrong.

The delightful couple who run this property happily provide limited transport up the hill.

There were two distinct bird colonies here, one of shags, and one of the Rockhopper Penguins we had come especially to see. Their name is obvious, they've got lots of rocks to hop, and indeed they hop, just like a kangaroo, two legs together. They are among the smallest of penguins. Rockhoppers have yellow whiskers rather like the macaroni penguins, and the yellow markings on their faces resemble eyes, which then look as though they open. Most rockhoppers stand steadily in the stiff breeze and afternoon sun with their eyes closed. To catch one with eyes open is a treat, because they are blood red.

It's a lot of hops to and from the water for these penguins.

To these rockhoppers, it's home, but to Tom, this is perfect African coastal geology, from whence the Falklands came.

The rockhopper penguin, red eyed and oh so cute!

A young rockhopper. They seem so resigned to their fate.

A rockhopper demonstrating the technique to her chick.

Some rockhoppers prefer to sit down for a rest.

Catching the late afternoon rays - it's 7:30pm.

Hasn't quite got his whiskers yet.

Johanna on the scent of the rockhoppers.

Unlike some of the penguin variants we have seen, rockhoppers are totally disinterested in their human visitors. They don't move or even look at you, even if you stray quite close.

Next to the rockhopper colony is another of shags.

An imperial shag on New Island.

This young shag became very interested in Mike sitting on a rock.

But then he started picking at my Bogs boots!

How terrifying to live with predators constantly soaring overhead on the prowl.

We were all quite enthralled by this visit, and at 7:30pm, when Shaun called us back to the ship, we were pretty reluctant to leave. As it turned out, Mike caught the last zodiac off the beach with Shaun, and looked back to see the host couple wave us goodbye and head back to their lonely settlement, which, we are absolutely sure, they love dearly. Apparently, these people were in residence here but unaffected by the 1982 Falklands War, which was almost entirely fought on the east island.

Upland and ruddy-headed geese roam happily and safely. We also saw some introduced cottontail rabbits in the field.

A tall bluff catches the last of the day's sun.

A old sealer "Protector III" graces the sandy beach in Coffin Cove, as the last of us zodiac back to the Orion.

Whatever it is, this introduced shrub is looking at home on the beach.

More of those geese, enforcing their right of way.

As the last Orion zodiac leaves their beach, the owners return to their remote settlement.

The sun has gone down on this tiny, idyllic settlement on New Island.

Our Bogs boots were cleaned and put away for the last time, a very sad occasion. As the Orion set sail for Ushuaia, the passengers enjoyed a fabulous Valentines Day celebration and meal in the dining room, our last dinner on board.