14 February, 2016

Shackleton's crossing of South Georgia...


Our last outing on South Georgia was a fitting finale. After four days getting ready at Cave Cove, Shackleton needed a safer place to leave three of his colleagues while he and two others made for Stromness. He needed a better launch-pad for that walk. He sailed the James Caird to Peggotty Bluff at the extreme eastern end of King Haakon Bay. We used zodiacs to visit that spot, surrounded by glaciers. Peggotty is a family name in Chales Dickens' David Copperfield.

The swell was up, but the landing was easy, and at the Bluff we were able to enjoy the ambience and sample the start of Shackletons difficult crossing of South Georgia. It was just perfect - the sun was starting to peek through, and there was a light breeze. It was just so pleasant here, much more so than, apparently, 100 years ago.
Shaun doing the introduction for the expedition video.


But this stop was mainly about photography. We walked the rocky beach, and meandered around looking for photo opportunities. Dan Westergren, the National Geographic photographer, and Ian Strachan, photo instructor, wandered with us, and offered tips on composition etc. Off the beach, there was a lagoon, very boggy heath and lots of puddles. Elephant seals lazed around and fur seals grumbled at our presence, a few stray penguins. There was a bluff we could climb to give some elevation (with one lone chinstrap penguinf, and the views were stunning in the improving light.
Crystal clear water in the mossy heath.

This female elephant seal looks surprised to see us. Probably she doesn't receive many visitors.

The rocky beach at Piggotty Bluff.

Nothing cuter than fur seals at this age.

A solitary fur seal in the grass tussocks looks at these multiple peaks.

And fungii!

No disturbing the seals in a wallow.

Looking up Shackleton Gap, the start of his trek across South Georgia.

There seems to be a disagreement being resolved here.

But all is chummy here.

Piggotty Bluff had the most photogenic elephant seals.

Some of us on the beach, some up the bluff, others looking for Shackleton's trail.

Dried kelp washed up on the beach.


And, after an hour or two, the Orion bar staff set up a little stand dispensing nips of Irish Whiskey and butterscotch schnapps. Just like the Sundeck Hotel. Very warming on a cool afternoon, and a fitting end to this incredible day, to once again pay homage to Shackleton's epic story of survival here, exactly 100 years ago.
A friendly welcome with whiskey and schnapps.

Schnapps-drinker.

Doug and Johanna pushing our zodiac out to sea.


The map, taken from the Orion's Daily Program, shows our jagged voyage around the South Georgia coast. We have had a very good look at this wildlife-prolific and historical outpost.
All the places we went on South Georgia in search of fabulous wildlife and to key parts of Shackleton's epic story.


The departure from South Georgia was tinged with sadness for us and probably most passengers. This destination, an add on to the Antarctic itinerary, proved to be a jewel in the crown, an unbelievably rich experience, that everyone enjoyed immensely. Travellers to Antarctica who don't get to South Georgia are missing a great deal!
One of numerous glaciers in King Haakon Bay.

Leaving King Haakon Bay, and South Georgia, we came across many escapee bergs from the Weddell Sea.

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